Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am selling a drivers side Bride Zeta II racing seat with R32 seat rails, complete with normal street car seat belt attached. I am selling them as a package for $750 firm.

I have no interest in separating the seat from the rails. If you want the seat/rails without the other then you need to buy them both, you can then separate them and on-sell the rails/seat yourself.

The seat has hardly been used and is in excellent 'as new' condition. There are no tears or stains on the seat and the fabric shows no signs at all of wear. You can see for yourself from the pics below how good the condition of the seat is.

The combined weight of the seat and rails is 14.5kgs. The overall height from the ground to the top of the seat is 950mm, depth is 650mm, and widest point of seat where it flairs across shoulders is 570mm from one edge to the other. I'm not sure if the seat is a large, medium, or small... however the inside measurement of the seat itself is 350mm at the narrowest point under the drivers bum, and 320mm at the narrowest point behind the drivers back.

The seat is located in Newcastle NSW and I am not providing delivery with the seat except to within a 200km radius for a modest fee to cover my fuel cost only. This means that if required I will personally deliver the seat to Sydney for a fee of $50. As for delivery to other areas within Australia you will need to organize this yourself at your own cost.

Please note: If you are within 200km of Newcastle and require me to deliver the seat I am prepared to do so COD, however I will require up to $100 deposit paid in advance depending on where the delivery is to (sorry but I have no desire to drive up to 200kms at my own cost in fuel and time simply to find that I have been fooled by a practical joker).

I will accept payment via cash/bank cheque on pick-up, or bank deposit/paypal paid in advance (no personal/business cheques, sorry). I am agreeable to COD if delivery is through Australia Post or an established/reputable courier service that offers COD arrangements.

For now this is the only place where I am selling the seat, however if I can't find a buyer here in the coming 3 or 4 days I will be listing it on eBay.

Since I am yet to reach the 10 posts required to use PMs on this site, please don't send me a PM unless you have first checked and seen that my post count has reached 10.

Please contact me, Gary, on 0458147209. I don't always get to my phone in time to get an incoming call, so please ring back again asap if you miss me on the first attempt.

If you are decided that you definitely want the seat but can't reach me direct on my phone right away, please SMS me with your name and number and telling me "yes, I will buy the seat for $750". The first call or SMS that I receive informing me they want the seat will get it. If the seat is still not sold once I have reached 10 posts and I can thus use PMs... then it will be the first call/SMS/PM I get offering my asking price that will get the seat.

If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me on the above number.

Cheers,

Gary

cno95.jpg

bdpcoz.jpg

28j9l6a.jpg

xn6zyo.jpg

dq0jtu.jpg

w5nc9.jpg

6p1feo.jpg

169qf5h.jpg

330hg1j.jpg

303e2bm.jpg

21l530l.jpg

2lseibc.jpg

Edited by jakrabid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...