Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys figured this is probably the best place to post this.

Picked up an FJ package today, to myself appeared to be a regular FJ20et my room mate has had a few and thought it was factory turbo also.

Now i got it home and started stripping it down to to gauge its condition better and see if it needs a rebuild.

The first sign i found was the exhaust manifold studs are M8 rather than M10.

The most obvious sign was the inlet manifold has 'eccs' rather then 'turbo' stamped on it, the guy i bought it off said the inlet had been changed to make it fit better in the engine bay as its apparently smaller?

The oil feed for the turbo appears factory to me, not just a random hole drilled and tapped into the block. But this is my first FJ so im not sure if they use the same block NA and turbo?

When i pulled the rocker cover and sump off, i found the head has recently been rebuilt and new pistons installed (standard rods)

So basically, in your opinions does this sound like an NA engine with a turbo added? and is there an easy way to tell?

Also has anyone heard of this being done before and the results, shortened life span etc?

The engine will be going into my machinist in the next few days to be gone over thoroughly and compression ratios etc determined.

Anyways thanks for reading my novel look forward to learning a few things.

Cheers

Baffy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340213-fj20et/
Share on other sites

bit hard to tell if the engines not original unopened as parts couldve been swaped but yes with the smaller exhaust studs i would say the head is n/a tho turbo cams couldve been swaped in? or not. the oil feed is a banjo bolt on drivers side of block near starter and oil return is a large barbed fitting in block on passanger side just under stock turbo position > on an n/a block the boss is there but blank but would be possible to fit these with drill and tap tho would be easier to T oil feed off oil sender and return to mod'd sump like z18et and L6turbo motors. i havnt pulled my n/a engine apart but been told rods r slightly smaller, oil pump is smaller and pistons are different to change comp ratio. block casting,crank and bare head suppose 2b the same. my n/a engine has the short rocker cover not the normal high 1s and yes intake manifold has different word cast init, s12 silvia has shorter runner length.

hope thats some help

jon.

Edited by tir31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340213-fj20et/#findComment-5505316
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Did you pay with a credit card? I'd be putting a charge back through then finding a new sparky to sort it out. 
    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...