Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just thought I'd throw this up in case anyone is keen, short notice I know but anyway :worship:

I'm still chasing the bonnet and guard trims for the C210 if anyone is going and has spares for sale.

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=23104

Cheers Dan

also: anyone going to Datnats in Goulburn over the 2011 easter long weekend?

Show postponed till 14th next month due to shit weather.

D- apparently accommodation fills up fast. I've already booked in and they said there filling up fast.

Still undecided on the track day, need more power/better brakes/better suspension. Might invest in a cam and a die grinder.

Ahh good!

I was going to go to the swap meet, but the bad weather turned me off.

Will pencil in the 14th then, see how that goes. (bring the Hatch, along with a boot load of stuffs)

Definitly on for Goulburn too, will be staying at home (canberra) as its not that far away.

as for head work and a cam.... go for it. Makes a hell of a difference. I drove a R30 L24e 5 speed the other week that had a Stewart Wilkins cam in it, felt totally different. even sounded different! more like an RB30e.

Get a few spare heads and have one as a practice/test dummy, then go for real on the good one.

I suggest getting the cam and all that done by a workshop, matching p the cam towers and the shimms is a pain in the arse.

I am not sure if Andrew is refering to my car, but I also have a 72 degree camshaft by Stewart Wilkins in my car which he drove a few months ago. Does go pretty hard, especially now I have advanced the ignition timing a bit.

Just a word of caution though, since I have put in the new cam I have been having troubles with low manifold vacuum screwing with the brakes. I am trying to sort a vacuum canister atm to try and fix my problem. Will post results when I get it sorted if anyone is interested?

Yeah, I think a mild cam and some port work/skim of the head would liven it up a bit with the new headers and E30 manifold. Wouldn't mind a decent down draught webber instead of the 300 Holly. Shimming the cam towers should be fairly straight forward lift the towers buy whatever you take off the head? or am I missing something?

Have a C110 sedan lined up for cheap. all thats left is running gear and suspension. So a spare head to rebuild if it's still good, spare struts to do the hilux calliper/coilover? conversion on as well as a spare box/diff. Hopefully my new shed will be built early next year so I've got somewhere to keep it all.

Why do we talk Holley & Weber down draught when twin 1.75" SU's are really cheap of 2500TC Triumphs. Is it the balance tuning issues, because it couldn't be such a big performance issue? I would think the twin carb manifold off 240/260Z's would be relatively easy to get, or aren't they??

D

Yep, sobeks car was a ripper

Wilkins lists 3x cams on his website, 68, 72, 74 (all FIA) regrinds. I have head of a 76 deg too for race use only

Got all the guts!

The degree number is what the japs do to rate cams and it's the number of degrees past bottom dead centre that the valves close at. Upwards to 300 degrees duration I'm told, so no good for turbo applications.

D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...