Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

It's been a hard decision but I need to sell my R33. I've have it for nearly 2 years now and I have hardly driven it. The reason for my sale is that I cant afford to run it (i.e comprehensive insurance etc). Its a clean example and I had plans to modify it more but never had the money to do so. The car just ran into the blue slip stage.

Some Specs -

1993 Nissan Skyline R33 GTST

89,000KMS

5spd manual

Exedy heavy duty clutch (near new)

17x9 +22 SSR Type-C wheels (needs new tyres at rear)

Lowered Pedders springs

Frount mount intercooler

HKS pod filter

Carbon lip wing

Sony/Panasonic sound system ( head unit, amp, speakers and subwoofer)

Mongoose 3pt immobilizer

20% tints

New battery

The car does have some flaws - the steering rack boot has oil on the right hand side, all inspections welcome im not mechanically minded so your guess is as good as mine.

Price - $5,500 not negotiable I reckon if you part it out you could make some money so I think this price is fair.

NO TIME WASTERS ! NOT NEGOTIABLE SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY

Thanks

IMG_0034.jpg

IMG_0030.jpg

IMG_0029.jpg

IMG_0024.jpg

I want a quick sale all inspections welcome but please serious buyers only ! whats the catch ? well in NSW it will need a blue slip, so that means I would need to remove the intercooler, change the air intake, get new tyres and fix the leak on the steering rack boot. And rego in NSW = $700 CTP green slip $350 registration. That would equal ? so yeah hence the price which I think is fair.

I want a quick sale all inspections welcome but please serious buyers only ! whats the catch ? well in NSW it will need a blue slip, so that means I would need to remove the intercooler, change the air intake, get new tyres and fix the leak on the steering rack boot. And rego in NSW = $700 CTP green slip $350 registration. That would equal ? so yeah hence the price which I think is fair.

hey mate, i'm from tassie, will i also need to get the blue slip as well?

or be able to a temp rego to drive it down here?

How much would it cost to fix the leak?

Cheers

i am still trying to sell my subi to buy this, i live in vic i can get a slip letting me drive the car unroadworthy/unrego for 28 days off vicroads, do you think ill be able to do this when im buying it from nsw? so i can drive it home rather then trailor?

I have a little experience with this so I hope you don't mind if I answer.

You can get an Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP) from the RTA which will cover your entire trip, including in Vic. You will however need a safety check report, which is what the old pink slip used to be, to certify that the car is at least roadworthy. Weather or not you can get a workshop to give you that without a blue slip first I am not too sure (there is also the added uncertainty of weather it would pass or not and you would have to take it to a workshop first). I know that the UVP from the RTA covers all of Australia, except WA, maybe VicRoads or whatever your version of the RTA is called has a similar deal that will make it so you won't have to bother dealing with the RTA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are black hose clamps as well if you care. Plazmaman for example sells some: https://plazmaman.com/product/black-hose-clamps-premium-quality-stainless-breeze/
    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
×
×
  • Create New...