Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

late 1995 r33 gts + T (so originally a non turbo) car is white

The good

driver + passenger air bag

theres a 7" dvd/gps in the double din spot + remote

has had a turbo conversion (using standard turbo and manifold with braided lines)

theres an aftermarket jjr intercooler

stock airbox

split dump + front pipe

xforce cat

trust power extreme 2 cat back exhaust (angled tip)

apexi power fc + controller (all tuned by peter at advan)

greddy profec spec b boost controller

greddy turbo timer

50mm aluminium radiator

exedy clutch

driftek 17x8 , 17x9 rims in gold (less than 1 year old still plenty of tread)

nismo gear knob

nismo gearbox mount

it also has saber gauges oil pressure, oil temp and water temp (all mounted in an enclosure on the dash) almost looks original

front strut brace

Registration is until march 2011

The bad:

heater core needs replacement

clutch slave cylinder needs rebuilding/replacement

the front guard has a ding and theres a scratch which someone put down the drivers side door (the quote for the guard to be fixed was 350 and the scratch 300)

power steering oil needs topping up (nothing wrong with the pump or anything, i havent had time to top up myself or take it since i bought the evo, very long list of things to do at the moment)

odometer stopped working at 120,000 , 4 months ago (timing belt etc was done by previous owner when it arrived from japan which was 75000km)

Reason for sale, its been in the garage now for 3 months, ive not driven it since i bought my evo 8 and i need to get rid of it asap. I thought i was going to fix up the above problems but im willing to negotiate on that price to someone who has time to fix them and have her running beautifully again. Other than whats mentioned above theres nothing wrong with the car!

Even if you bought it to strip for parts you would more than likely recoup what you paid for it and make some more. I would do that but i just dont have the time nor the patience.

PM ME for pics etc or to make offer

Edited by DaGr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346227-r33-gtst-sale-dec-1995-model/
Share on other sites

Guys any reasonable offer will be considered, also the heater core has been by passed so theres no leakage into the cabbin. You can buy heater cores on ebay brand new ones for $240

I need this gone within 2 weeks, if its not sold on sau within 4-5 days it will go on ebay

Edited by DaGr81

$3500 ono and its yours! you can get more than that stripping the car for parts!

i need this gone ASAP! Before i bought the evo (3 months roughly) the diff, geabox and engine oils were all changed.

G'day Mate,

I'm pretty keen on this, I would send you a PM but I can't until my post count is over 10.

Can you send me a PM with your contact details and I'll give you a call.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...