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In Need Of Diagnosis, Re Clutch/box/engine Mount

simonthomasgoodwin
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simonthomasgoodwin Collaborator

simonthomasgoodwin

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Hey there so as title says im having trouble working out whats wrong.. with what part haha

firstly when i had my car rwc'd a few months ago mechanic told me that engine mount had a crack and should be replaced.. (have not done it yet as its looking like an all-dayer, and had a look through the FYI section and only found one for replacing on a silvia... which is a hell of a lot easier)

so does anyone have any tips on this one?

now box/clutch,

when changing down thru gears its hard to get it into the gear.. mainly in 4,3,2 but if im not applying the brakes it is easier... :S very confusion..

when taking off in first, and then stoping again in first (eg at a busy traffic lights) i cannot get it out of first with the brake on (i have to slow down, realease brake, then go back to neutral... cannot just stop with clutch in and in first.. its astho the clutch just doesnt release)

and when it does release it makes a big clu-dunk sometimes and still needs a good yank to get it out

my clutch is a twin plate brass button, and it doesnt feel like it is anymore... (when taking off in first i can ride it a fair bit.. it used to just be on/off..

also i have checked clutch lines, i havnt lost any fluid, and there isnt any evidence of fluid along the lines from mast down to slave..

so first question could the engine mount be causing me troubles if its cracked all the way thru,, ie made everything out not line up right?

could my clutch just be worn and need replacing?

do i have a problem with my box?

does it sound like clutch bracket? have read something about it but no idea whr it is /what it looks like :S

anyone else had this problem?

thanks i really need to get ontop of this and my pet hate is getting a mechanic to do it.. hahaha

all feedback apreciated

thanks Simon G :)

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like it could be a clutch fork problem, it might have bent a little causing the clutch to not fully disengage when it's all the way to the floor making it hard to shift gears and crunch when you try to engage them at a stand still.

The easiest way to check it is to pull your slave cylinder off, pull the push rod out of it and get one made up that is slightly shorter by about 3-4mm or so and re-install it. If your clutch feels normal again after doing that your clutch fork is bent and you need to replace it.

Edited by Dobz
simonthomasgoodwin Collaborator

simonthomasgoodwin

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Sounds like it could be a clutch fork problem, it might have bent a little causing the clutch to not fully disengage when it's all the way to the floor making it hard to shift gears and crunch when you try to engage them at a stand still.

The easiest way to check it is to pull your slave cylinder off, pull the push rod out of it and get one made up that is slightly shorter by about 3-4mm or so and re-install it. If your clutch feels normal again after doing that your clutch fork is bent and you need to replace it.

update the problem has been getting worse over the last month or 2.... and today ive been barely able to get into 1st... had to do some 2nd gear starts...

and also the clutch has lost alot of pressure,. ie. i dont hav to use as much force on it..

btw thanks for the input Dobz... but just before i go and dismember my salve cyl id like to hear other peoples idea's and or agreeance.. :)

it does feel astho if i could push the clutch through the firewall it would let me move gears easier tho.. is there a way to adjust how much the pedal moves/pivots? to give me that extra leeway..

also havnt bled the lines yet.. didnt think it would be neccesary as i see no evidence of leaks and how would air get in there otherwise? :S am i wrong :| :S

also read that twin plate brass buttons wear quite quickly too.. when i got the car it took me a long time to learn how to drive again -__- could it just be effed?

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted

A worn clutch won't make it harder to shift gears it'll just slip and make your revs flare out. There is an adjustment on the clutch pedal, you could get under there and wind it out further so the master cylinder gets a bit more push. It would be a good idea to bleed the system even though you see no leaks just to rule it out, that is if adjusting the clutch pedal doesn't do much.

simonthomasgoodwin Collaborator

simonthomasgoodwin

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thanks guys :D im gna hav a crack at it tommorow after work :) also i jus realised tonite its not to bad at all when its cold.. as temp gauge goes up it gets worse amd worse.. makes me think cylinder seals?

simonthomasgoodwin Collaborator

simonthomasgoodwin

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Posted

just spent a good 45 mins bleeding cyls and lines wondering why it wasnt working only to look under the dash to see how mcfckd the bracket/s? were it looks like there is 2 of them? one has completely riped the middle out and the other is cracked and hanging.. both are about 5+ cm away frm where they shuld b haha .. been revmatching allday -__- great.. haha il post some pics soon and a vid  thanks for help guys!

cheers!

simon g

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