Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dunno if I'm allowed to post this sorta stuff but I was extremely close to buying this car, flights booked to Perth and all, but then something told me to get this car checked out...

Made the owner take it to a mechanic who then told me it was f**ked.

98psi on #1 cylinder and 180psi across the rest. Brakes were metal on metal and motor was knocking...

This was probably 4 months ago now and he hasn't removed the listing or adjusted price. I'm curious as to wether he knew before hand and just wasn't going to mention it to me or not.

Just hope the people out there are doing there homework before they buy cars.

Even the caryards are dodgey as hell. My advice if it's a fresh import: run the vin number through every search engine you can find. I found mine and the info varied between dealer and the advert I found.

TRUST NOBODY and remember; you are doing them the favour by buying the car, not them doing the favour by selling it to you.

And most importantly get the car looked over (compression and leak down test is a must)

If I'm not allowed to post the link below please delete mods

but I'll leave this description:

pearl white 260RS in Perth, dayz options, 34GTR wheels, un-necessary fuel and intake mods...

Good luck and thanks for listening to my rant ;)

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/private/NISSAN/STAGEA/details.aspx?__Ns=pCar_PrivateSpecialFlag_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_ImageCount_Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_LastModifiedDate_DateTime%7c1&__Nne=20&R=8854702&Cr=4&model_id=4606&__N=4294960181%204294963846%201216%20834%20285%20257&silo=1003&seot=1&make_id=5&__No=60&trecs=74&__sid=128FD21CE450

Edited by Brendan260RS
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353455-dodgey-dealers/
Share on other sites

i don't think i'd even get as far as a comp/leak down test....things like 'gearbox sticking in third (because i thrashed the synchros), just needs oil (and a rebuild) but i can't get the drain plug off (because i rounded it off trying to open it with a sledgehammer).'

or

'rear shock needs replacing (including all other rear suspension components, cradle, and HICAS most likely shot to pieces) after damage with a gutter (which i fully sik'd into).'

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353455-dodgey-dealers/#findComment-5665598
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...