Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is my R33 GTST series 2 '95/'95

Mods:

- Forward facing plenum

- 90mm TB

- Front mount intercooler

- Malpassi Rising rate fuel regulator

- 52mm dual core Aluminium radiator

- Twin Au electric thermo fans in shroud mounted

- Plumb back blow off valve

- Apexi 3 inch exhaust system

- High flow 3 inch cat converter

- 3inch dump pipe

- Volk racing rims

- Do Luck Body kit (Front bar and rear bar fitted, side skirts supplied but not fitted as yet)

- Short shift kit fitted to the gear box

- Profec B Spec 2 boost controller installed (mounted inside front ashtray so it is completely hidden when closed)

The car comes with

- A spare stock bonnet (previous owner has cut a hole in it to accomodate large cooler piping running over the top of the engine) - good for the track.

- A spare fibreglass bonnet with some damage/wear on the points at the rear/windscreen area.

- The stock intake plenum (if wanted)

- A pair of stock rims

- A pair of aftermarket rims (17inch in dark gunmetal grey)

- A spare alternator

Asking price is $8,000.00 I am open to offers however.

The car itself needs paint and a new bonnet to make it a $10-$11k car.

Feel free to ask any questions or for more pics.

I am located on the northside of Brisbane. Cheers

post-82476-0-15644800-1298539655_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-89570600-1298539711_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-52045500-1298539758_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-38420400-1298539830_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-07323000-1298539902_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-06435200-1298539971_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-48822700-1298540028_thumb.jpg

post-82476-0-20445900-1298540101_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355104-fs-r33-gtst-9495-series-2/
Share on other sites

Series 2 motor in a series 1 year car.

I bought it as a rolling shell with series 2 running gear.

The motor is a series 2 engine with 5,000 less kilometers than the odometer that I put in it.

GTST were you asking a question or trying to point something out?

Just because there is a mounting location at the back of the coil cover for an ignitor doesnt mean the engine is series 1. No ignitor in this engine bay. Series 2 has this as part of the ecu.

I think he was moreso wanting to point out to any potental buyers that its not a series 2. There are a few other things apart from the engine that make a series 2 different to a series 1.

  • 1 year later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...