Jump to content
SAU Community

R30 Won't Start

jrh001
 Share

Recommended Posts

jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
Posted

Hi,

The R30 has been sitting in the yard for two weeks. Usually it starts first time, even after many weeks, however now it fires for a second or two and then dies. After that nothing, the engine just turns over.

If I wait a minute, switch ignition off and then try again, it does the same thing, fires for a second then dies.

I can hear the fuel pump priming. There's fuel in the tank and the fuel filter is full of fuel so the fuel pump is working. There must be some spark because it does fire briefly. Coil is new, and the new coil gives same symptoms as the old coil. No obvious leaks anywhere, battery is fully charged. I recently replaced the temperature sensor and cold start valve (with parts from wreckers) and car was running well when last used.

Any thoughts on what to check next?

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

Id also check if the injectors have leaked and then gummed up (fuel tyurned to varnish like substace) and now blocked.

Same thing happened to me!

It would run for a few seconds then just die.

I found out the cold start injector (the agricultural irrigation like fuel injector in the intake plenum) was spraying enough fuel during cranking to actually get it to run. Once the starter motor stops the cold start injector stops too.

Maybe test it out by un-plugging the cold start injector (simple clip on plug) and see what happens.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735215
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Andrew,

I'll unclip the cold start injector and test your theory. Is it likely that all the injectors would gum up? Maybe the relay is faulty.

@Peter, I think the dizzy/ignitor is OK. It's the 'newest' component on the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735290
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

Thanks Andrew,

I'll unclip the cold start injector and test your theory. Is it likely that all the injectors would gum up? Maybe the relay is faulty.

@Peter, I think the dizzy/ignitor is OK. It's the 'newest' component on the car.

[/quote

I have just been thru this.

Get some throttle body cleaner. Clean the AFM and the throttle body. Worked for me. 100%

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5735859
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

...

I have just been thru this.

Get some throttle body cleaner. Clean the AFM and the throttle body. Worked for me. 100%

That did the trick (plus a new fuel filter). Back on the road.

Thanks for all the replies.

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5739298
Share on other sites
jrh001 Proficient

jrh001

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Socrates,

I suspect the fuel filter was the main problem. The throttle body was very dirty so cleaning that must have helped. As for the AFM, it was reasonably clean but I also cleaned up the electrical plug and connectors.

The problem with EFI is that a fault in any one of the sensors, relays, connectors (or an air leak!) can cause problems or stop the engine from running. I collected a set of relays off a wreck today - just in case (!). I probably need more testing tools, a fuel pressure gauge would be useful - for a while I thought that the fuel pump wasn't delivering enough fuel.

JH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5739405
Share on other sites
Factory 5 Mentor

Factory 5

Posted
Posted

I can confirm that there has been alot of problems with fuel since the floods in qld. I know of at least 6 cars now that have crapped themselves due to fuel. Tank clean and new filter, and purged lines have fixed them all.! (including my R30 Hatch which is in Brissy at the moment)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358885-r30-wont-start/#findComment-5740330
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...