Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Sorry if this is already posted or discussed before. I can't find any information related in search engine.

Anyway, I am looking at modifying my stock exhaust. Not fancy job, I just want to change my stock exhaust tips to stainless steel or chrome and make them extend past my Veilside rear bar. For now, stock ones are sitting way too much inside.

Can anyone with past experiences in this process please let me know the pros and cons?

Also, I've looked up in Workshop thread and might be contacting Kermit Engineering for this job. But if anyone know any reputable shops in SOR, please let me know.

Thank you.

Edited by VNS 24
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360994-modifying-stock-exhaust/
Share on other sites

R.I.C.E.

Why bother? just get Kermit to make you a nice new full system :)

Cost effective? :P

I just don't want to spend the same as buying the whole new system. Plus it's stock, so not much hassle. :)

I am still weighing up my options.

It won't sound very good though. Kermit will make you something that sounds AMAZING :D And for not that much money either. My exhaust cost me $700. Cheaper than any Jap brand and much better to boot.

Just putting an aftermarket muffler on your stock exhaust has absolutely no benefit whatsoever, other than making your car sound like a sustained wet fart.

A full exhaust will actually give you performance gains as well as making it sound good.

Edited by bubba

It won't sound very good though. Kermit will make you something that sounds AMAZING :D And for not that much money either. My exhaust cost me $700. Cheaper than any Jap brand and much better to boot.

Just putting an aftermarket muffler on your stock exhaust has absolutely no benefit whatsoever, other than making your car sound like a sustained wet fart.

A full exhaust will actually give you performance gains as well as making it sound good.

Just changing the tips would change the sound that much? I didn't know about that before. :P

I am not after any power gain at this stage. Just want bigger shiny exhaust tips that will look nice with the rear bar and sound stock. :)

If that's not possible, I will just have to get an aftermarket one.

Edited by VNS 24

get a shiney chrome exhaust tip from auto-pro or whatever and gaffa-tape it on... i hear they do heart shapes and stuff... woop woop.

Thank you, sir.

But no, thanks. I don't want heart shapes. I just want to make it looks new, stockish and compliment the rear bar fully.

Edited by VNS 24

So you want some R.I.C.E.? (Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements)

:) . Very funny, sir.

Nah, seriously. I just want the rear end to look better. I can go buy the new exhaust, but it will still sit inside the bar like 25mm. I just want the exhaust to extend out.

:) . Very funny, sir.

Nah, seriously. I just want the rear end to look better. I can go buy the new exhaust, but it will still sit inside the bar like 25mm. I just want the exhaust to extend out.

Then don't buy an off the shelf system. Find the muffler you want and get kermit to make you up a nice system with that muffler on the end, exactly where you want it.

If you just weld a bigger muffler on the end it's going to sound like a Honda.

Edited by bubba

Then don't buy an off the shelf system. Find the muffler you want and get kermit to make you up a nice system with that muffler on the end, exactly where you want it.

If you just weld a bigger muffler on the end it's going to sound like a Honda.

Ok. Thanks, mate.

I will keep that in mind. :)

By the way, do you live or work around Maddington area? I saw twice silver Stagea about 5:40pm this week coming out of one of the street.

Edited by VNS 24

give kermit a call and see what he can do, ill be up there tomorrow if you want to talk to him in person you can follow me to his place (i live sor)

Thanks for the offer, mate.

I've already got plans for this weekends. I will definitely call Kermit if I go ahead with this decision, and ask more about it.

Thanks again. :)

just get off your ass and take it to an exhaust shop and they can weld an extension on it

Yes, mate.

I will do that if the car won't sound very much like a "Honda" like previous guys said.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
×
×
  • Create New...