Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Blitz SBC iD Electronic Boost Controller SPEC -R (dual solenoid) RRP $799

Click on the link below for more info:

http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html

http://www.scribd.co...-SBC-I-D-Manual

I've upgraded to an i-color so it's no longer required.

As you can see it's in very good condition, installation should only require some Vac hose & a T piece.

The Manual is included but in JAP so I've included the link above in English.

I also have a Blitz Power Meter RRP $300+ I'll add a photo ASAP

Total value is over $1000 I'm asking

$420 Boost Controller $120 Power Meter

The above prices are for Cash pickup only.

Add $15 for Registered Post

I will accept paypal but will charge 2.5% on top as that's what they charge me.

If you have any questions contact me here or email me at [email protected]

If you want to contact me by phone I prefer you call rather than sending sms as I just don't have time to reply.

Thanks for looking

Brett

post-60944-0-98317700-1304215215_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sydneyactionman

Hi there,

You're asking for $540 for both, I'd like to offer you $440 for both, let me know if you would consider this and I'll arrange for cash to be deposited asap.

I prefer local pick up, but you can also send to VIC 3012.

Thanks.

PS: Tried to PM you but it says you cannot receive PM's. Why is that?

$440 is way to low.

$520 posted registered is my final price.

Not sure why I can't get pm's I'll check my settings.

Hi there,

You're asking for $540 for both, I'd like to offer you $440 for both, let me know if you would consider this and I'll arrange for cash to be deposited asap.

I prefer local pick up, but you can also send to VIC 3012.

Thanks.

PS: Tried to PM you but it says you cannot receive PM's. Why is that?

  • 2 weeks later...

Check my feedback below to see I'm a trustworthy seller.

http://feedback.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=sydneyactionman&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller

I've also put the Power Meter on Ebay as I've had no takers here.

Blitz SBC iD Electronic Boost Controller SPEC -R (dual solenoid) RRP $799

Ok $415 Posted Registered.

Check my feedback if you have any doubts.

http://feedback.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=sydneyactionman&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...