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Offers are only valid to 31/5/2011 or whilst stocks last.

RDA Rotors

NB: Prices listed below INCLUDE delivery.

S14/S15 SR20DET Slotted Rotors (FULL SET F+R) - only $349!

S14/S15 SR20DET Plain Rotors (FULL SET F+R) - only $249!

S13 SR20DET Slotted Rotors (FULL SET F+R) - only $349!

S13 SR20DET Plain Rotors (FULL SET F+R) - only $249!

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Need rotors for another make or model? PM or email us for a deal! We can get anything in the RDA catalogue!!

TRUST/GReddy

NB: Prices listed below exclude delivery.

GReddy Spec LS Intercooler Kits - from just $649!

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GReddy Spec LS Universal Intercooler Core - just $379!

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GReddy Oil Catch Tank (Catch Can) - just $139!

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GReddy Oil Filter - just $20!

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GReddy Full Auto Timer II - just $139!

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GReddy Magnetic Sump Plug - just $25!

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GReddy MX Front Pipe - just $269!

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SuperPro Polyurethane Bushings

ALL SUPERPRO PRODUCTS AND KITS 10% OFF!

For S13 Bushings and Kits - CLICK HERE!

For S14/S15 Bushings and Kits - CLICK HERE!

To see the rest of the SuperPro Catalogue - CLICK HERE - we can order ANY part for you!

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Whiteline Sway Bars and Handling Products

NB: Prices listed below exclude delivery.

Whiteline Camber Adjusting Bolts - just $69!

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Whiteline Sway Bars - from just $199!

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Koyo 53mm Alloy Radiators

NB: Prices listed below exclude delivery.

NIS0172AL SILVIA S13 CA18 - $499

NIS0252AL SILVIA S13 SR20 - $499

NIS0369AL S14, S15 1993-00 - $499

NIS0214AL SKYLINE R32 2.0L/2.5L 1989-94 - $659

NIS0243AL 300ZX 3.0L TWIN TURBO 1989-96 - $629

NIS0308AL PULSAR N14/N15 1.6L 1991-00 - $619

NIS0311AL PULSAR 1991-00 N14/N15 2.0L - $669

NIS0439AL SKYLINE R34 1998-03 - $619

NIS0442AL SKYLINE R33 1993-98 2.5L - $619

NIS0879AL SKYLINE R34 GT-R 2.6L 1999-02 - $Please email

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  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
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