Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's pretty pricey. There would be less than an hours labour, $20 worth of materials, plus the plug, tongue and ball. $400 would leave a huge profit.

Even though, a $50 tow bar plus postage from an eastern state to W.A. would add up.

R30's in wreckers are getting few and far between, finding one let alone one with a tow bar could take quite a while. If you have no luck finding one second hand shop around for a custom one, surely someone would charge a something a little more reasonable like $250.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366315-dr30-tow-bar/#findComment-5847158
Share on other sites

I rang two custom places and neither could say what they would rate it at, and said, 'maybe' 450kg. I need something that can do 600kg. And both said about 4-500.

Im not all that bothered, as if i can't find one i will sell the car and get something that can tow that weight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366315-dr30-tow-bar/#findComment-5847648
Share on other sites

The owner's handbook states unbraked max load @ 400kg and braked @ 800kg and that is how the manufacture rates the sub frame.

As has been spoken about here a lot, it is an accepted fact that the car would fairly easily tow the 600kg you're looking for but something like a reece hitch I think would be best.

Cheers, D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/366315-dr30-tow-bar/#findComment-5848234
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...