Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5831692155_12f940d25f_z.jpg

5832242294_202745878b_z.jpg

5831691421_3c6c4561e4_z.jpg

5831691983_1a185527df_z.jpg

5832242786_fba1a77e8a_z.jpg

5832242056_8a6822da41_z.jpg

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about selling my 1996 model Nissan Stagea RS4S Dayz edition.

I bought my Stagea just over 4 months ago from Victoria, and during my ownership it has been a dream to drive.

I am the second owner of the car since it's been imported from Japan in 06'.

I've not had any issues with it at all.

It's sonic silver (KR4) in colour, and is all factory paint.

There are a few minor scratches on the body from the previous owners possesion.

There is also a little bit of rust forming under the passenger mirror.

Extremely low km's (just over 70,000km).

It's automatic (all S1 Stageas came auto, bar the Autech RS260).

All electrics work.

The only real drama with the Stagea is that I have pumped the rear guards to fit some wide wheels, they are a little rough too.

I did a major service 2 months ago, all belts were replaced, along with filters and waterpump. Oh, I've fitted a new 02 sensor recently too.

Since purchase, the Stagea has seen some modifacations, these include:

BC racing coilovers

Poineer 3 way speakers all round

Series 2 tail lights

Clear indicators all round

Chargespeed eyelids

NA Grille

Some factory options include:

Nismo catback exhaust

Climate control

Driver and passenger airbags

Cargo net and boot cover

Full DAYZ bodykit (front bumper, side skirts, rear lip and rear wing)

5 piece floormats

Auto locking rear hatch

twin sunroofs

ABS

AWD

all stock parts will be included.

I also have everything ready for a manual conversion, which I will include in the sale for an extra $1000.

Rego until March 2012.

LO-11-VO plates included with sale.

The headunit, gauges, seats, catch can, wheels and intake setup are not included, stock parts will replace these items.

The only reason for thinking about selling up is because I have lost my licience for 5 months, and have since lost interest in cars.

Located in liverpool region, NSW.

I'm after $12,500 w/o conversion parts and $13,500 with.

You can contact me on 0410-65-1989 or shoot me a PM.

I will get some better photos up once the weather settles (and if I get home before it's dark).

Please, no time wasters.

Thanks,

Adam.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...