Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I got my hands on a T4 (XTR) Turbo. ball bearing,high-flow etc. I managed to source it from a guy who literally forgot he had it. I came across it when we were moving stuff out of his garage and I bought it for peanuts.

I'm wondering what other components are vital to be installed prior/with having the T4 installed. My initial thoughts as per SAU is:

FMIC

Z32 AFM

Boost controller

Injectors

Fuel pump

ECU

Although I've heard other responses where they've advised FMIC, controller, and ECU should be sufficient until 'x' amount of power.

I'm not chasing massive power gains.. but the more I read this back to myself, the more I sound impatient. Lol.

  • 5 months later...
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Lol.. awesome response to my last post.

..anyway, just thought I would update my thread and post my pretty wheels.

19" Work TE37s. Fronts are 8.5", rears are 9.5" +22

The rears came with 275/35 rubber but was too wide and caused it to rub against the perch of the strut.. so I had to get 235/30. Although it may have been different if I had coilovers installed rather than the upgraded Juran branded stuff that's on there atm.

Btw, the 275/35's are for sale! Plenty of tread on them! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395678-fs-stockies-with-rubber-and-rubber/

ZoMDs.jpg

  • 2 months later...

lads, just a quick question..

I have a pod filter (airynx) on C34 (99, s2 neo) installed a FMIC, replaced coilpacks (splitfire) and upgraded to larger injectors.. at the moment its still driving a bit rough

would upgraded injectors call for a new tune?

Bigger injectors without a tune will make it run rich and more than likely foul the plugs causing a misfire.

I don't mean any disrespect but if you have done this maybe you should research things a bit more first before doing upgrades like this. Saves you any dramas.

I was told, via SAU, the injectors wouldn't cause an issue as the increase of CC's wasn't off the charts.. its no biggy. I can take them out and eliminate the items one by one. but from other threads, I thought I was going down a common path.

Edited by S T A R 3 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...