Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day, selling a Motec M48 computer with complete ignition module and map sensor. Was on a GTR before with -7 making 290kw at the wheels, tuned at CRD.

this has great potential for running heavy Hps, Perfect for racing engines and performance upgrade. originally cost more than 4000 with ignition module, now selling for 2500.

any interest, please PM. cheers.

MoTeC’s M48 is a popular,and high end ECU with a lot to offer both road and race applications. Testament to its enduring performance and reliability, it is used as the control ECU in Australia’s V8 Supercar series.

It represents excellent value for a wide range of up to eight cylinder and two rotor applications. Applications up to twelve cylinders are possible using group fire or semi-sequential injection.

The DOS-based tuning software is efficient and easy to use.

Several upgrades are available to increase the functionality of the M48 including traction and launch control, anti-lag and data logging, to name just a few.

BASIC SPECIFICATIONS

Outputs

8 x Injector outputs—high or low ohm

Up to 2 x Ignition outputs—see optional configurations ‡

Up to 4 x Auxiliary outputs—switched or PWM—for functions such as turbo waste gate control, idle speed control, intercooler spray bars, or to be used as additional ignition output ‡

‡ Optional ignition/auxiliary output configurations:

(configurable in software)

2 ignition outputs and 3 auxiliary output

1 ignition output and 4 auxiliary output

Inputs

3 x Analogue voltage inputs—fully configurable including custom calibrations

3 x Analogue temperature inputs—fully configurable including custom calibrations

1 x Wideband Lambda—for Lambda measurement and control

2 x Digital/speed inputs—for wheel speeds and function activation

Communications

1 x RS232

Physical

Case size 150 x 100 x 36 mm

Weight 480 gram

1 x 36 pin waterproof connector with gold plated contacts

I'm interested but what model GT-R was this on and does it come with all wiring ??

Also are there any upgrades installed..e.g traction control, data logging,anti lag,lambada measurement etc ??

mate, be honestly i am not that tech capable to answer your question. this is the compter that came with my r33 gtr that made 290kws, im thinking downgrade it then use the cash to upgrade some other parts. its been tuned at crd and they might can tell u the detailed infor about this thing. mechaic told me this computer is way too serious for people like me, so i decided to exchange the value and pass on the benifits for better use of others. it vame with the wiring and map sensor. thanks.

No worries..I'll give them a bell and see if i can dig up some more info.

I'm looking to replace my HKS F-con but dont want to go backwards using Apexi Power Fc .

I'll see what I can find out and get back to you.

I am not interested in buying this but if the map is locked can a new one be loaded up or would the ecu be locked?

You should probably check and update this thread.

It is a decent price, I bought this exact setup 10 years ago but sold it unused.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...