Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi There Guilt toy. Thank you for the option. At the moment the MAF's are as far away from the turbo in the engine bay as possible. But that is not a great distance! If I can find somewhere to mount two MAF's and filters sensibly outside the engine bay I might go for that as it would also help keep inlet temps down! Not convinced I have space though? Also I don;t want the filters where they are likely to get covered in crap from the road or brake dust etc.. So that kind of rules out most places! And if they cannot be in direct airflow which I can see why.. limited even more! Can you post a pic of where yours is mounted? And are you on twin MAF's or a single?

Thank you

Lee

its been a white mate. no pics.

Normally a skyline has plastic covers down there, what i did was got some black tape and sealer up the area a bit more. no dirt or shit got in from the road but air flow came from the front of the bar.

You might want to run a Z32 afm, there are ways to convert to a single AFM setup.

I am pretty sure that moving the AFM further away will help if not solve the issue completly. my AFM was very far from the turbo and it solved ALL the issues i had and they were much worse then yours that you are describing.

good luck

Thanks for the reply again.. Surely a single Z32 is not good for that power?? From an earlier reply you simply splice the two MAF wires together to convert to single set-up? A little tempting but I am just concerned about physically flowing enough air?

I have after-market front wings and the crap shields didn't fit! I am sure I could fix something up if needed though.

Just another thought.. Which I have started a new thread on.. but would (I guess) raising the fuel cut value in the rpm screen help sort the problem at all?

From what I can tell monitoring the hand commander. When you lift of the fuel is cut? so injector duty is 0%. Then when it falls far enough.. presumably to the F/C value the fuel then starts injecting again to catch and control the idle?

If that is right.. If I was to increase the fuel cut rpm would that help the stalling issue at all? Would it have any other negative effects?

Thank you

Lee

Hi Jono,

Saw your rey on my other thread.. Thank you. The fuel cut at the mo is set at 1200rpm and 1300rpm. Would raising this help my MAF related tendency to stall do you think??

Slight aside..

I need my cold running setup.. When the car is cold does it run on the same map load cells and just use watertemp compensation to control it? Mine idles pretty fine but if you touch the gas a bit to hard it really struggles.. Hard to say if it's lean or rich.. I would guess lean? Once it's warmed up it's perfect.

Thanks

Lee

Would still be great if someone could give me some of the first few and last few numbers in the MAF table for a pair of Q45 MAF's on an RB26 ECU. I went through and altered all my current chart by the corresponding % for each voltage band.. I assume I did it right?? I just multiplied each table value by the relevant %?

Just to confirm I did this and checked the graph mode and the graph looks nice and smooth just like it was before I changed the values!?

I have one more shot at the dyno next weekend and really want to get the car as smooth as I can this time. Really appreciate any pointers please.

Thank you

Lee

Come on guy's. I only have a few day until I am at the dyno and I want to get my MAF table setup as best as I can. I cannot afford to go back to the dyno again!

Only after a few key values along the way so I can try and fill in the blank between!

Thanks in advance.

Lee

Thanks for all the tips guy's had a second go at the dyno this weekend.. I recalculated my MAF table and found that my previous calculation I had used an inverse multiplication by accident.. it didn't solve the stall issue on it's own but my tuner watched the map while I did some typical driving on the dyno and he found the cells that it drops into as it stalls.. He then kept leaning them out until it didn't stall any more. Sorted! Cells are not used any other time so that should not be an issue!

Cheers

Lee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...