Jump to content
SAU Community

95 R33 GTS-T Man

gtrken
 Share

Recommended Posts

gtrken Grand Master

gtrken

Posted
Posted

Was going to the big project on this thing ( RB30 etc ) but have decided I am definitely a GTR man and as such have ordered anther R32 GTR.

So it's for sale and is one of the cleanest ones around. Mods include

R34 GTR FMIC

GReddy plenum and 80mm infiniti throttle body.

Autometer boost and oil pressure gauges on pillar pod

3in Jap exhaust with very free flow Cat and one piece dump/front pipe

Kei Office coilovers all round

Bosch 910 in tank pump

Brand new exedy 9 puck clutch and pressure plate

Turbosmart BOV

Advanti 5 spoke 17x8's with reasonable firestones

78KM on the clock and I believe is genuine.

Nismo 400R type front bar and side skirts

Car has run 196 rwhp on 7 psi and a fairly rich mixture ( still on std computer)

Interior is basically immaculate with one little mark on the drivers seat and mechanically is very sound.

Price is $21K neg and can email pics

and SKYLINE plates are extra. Before you ask I want $2,500 for them....

Contact me at work or via PM

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/37250-95-r33-gts-t-man/
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Butters
      R34 GTR Speedo Drive , sensor type ?

      By Butters · Posted

      Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...