Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, time to get rid of my baby, to make room for a bigger family(more kids) so im buying a stagea.

the car is currently being fixed as the auto geabox is slipping. this is a regretful sale and i really wish i could have finished this car off, but family comes 1st. It was a street/strip project which is about 3/4 to where i wanted it to be, the aim was a 10 sec street car.

mods are a follows

exterior

s2 stout type R carbon fibre bonnet which are pretty rare

interior

autometer cobalt boost guage ustom fitted in dash

apexi turbo timer

pioneer double din head unit

blue/red LED dash kit

colour matched dash insert

genuine nissan floor mats

aftermarket 3 way speakers in the front doors... clarion i think

2x pioneer 10 inch subs in box

some ebay amp - the stereo is pretty good, but i really wanst worried, more stereo weighs the car down, the subs arent in the car atm but can be refitted easily.

suspension and handling

Cusco front struct brace

Cusco rear strut brace

HKS hypermax II coilovers all round - bound/rebound/height adjustable

tie rod ends have recently been done.

17" r34 GTT rims - 225/45 on the front 90% tread - 235/45 on the back 50% tread

engine and drivetrain

PowerFC ecu

z32 afm

700cc injectors

splitfire coilpacks

XRacing bar and plate FMIC 3" in and out near new

custom 2.5" pipework

all silicon and t-clamp connections

3" exhaust, the front pipe is compltetely custom made cost $500, and is 304 grade stainless, the middle pipe is from my old hks super dragger exhaust and is 3" mild steel, with a 3" stainless rear pipe, only a cat, resonator and 1 muffler.

44mm external gate 17psi spring, plumbed back in the exhaust. 1000kms old

XSPower stainless highmount, hpc coated. near new only 1000kms old

KAMAK T67-25G turbo with .82 rear, 1000kms old

XTR turbo beanie

Blitz suspower pod filter

oil catch can

relocated power steering resivour

re4r01a automatic gearbox - currently being rebuilt by bayswater automatics, the gearbox will be built using KEAS parts, fully manualised, billet servos, widened carbon band, extra clutches in the 3/4 clutch drum, hi temp bearings, fixed oil journals for higher flow, new gaskets, its a full reco + upgrades, heaps of work being done, 3.5k worth, the gearbox is guarnteed to handle 700rwhp.

http://www.keas.com.au

TCE 8" pro drag series torque converter - brand new being custom made to suit the gearbox. 3000 histall 1.5k worth of converter

PWR oil cooler.

currently the car has made 255rwkw @ 17psi on bp98 with a slipping clutch in the gearbox, which is why im rebuilding it. i really wanted to put the car into the 10's but it needs to go. massive potential, the turbo setup is proven to 500rwhp. it was tuned by trent @ chequered tuning(status tuning). the pipe work has since been changed, and bov removed as it was leaky, the car also developed an exhaust leak on the dyno. with a little more time and money, this car could make an easy 300rwkw,the engine is healthy as its always been properly tuned, and not thrashed.

downsides to the car - the body is a little rough, couple of dents in the roof from the ppl that did the exhaust - didnt latch the bonnet, it flipped up and hit the roof, i havent had time to get it fixed, theres a couple of other small dings, and scratches, and the rear bar could use some paint, although i can paint it if its going to make the sale, i have the paint from when i did the front end which u can see is pretty good in the pics.

heres a couple of pics for now and ill get some more tomorrow.

CEG1CgBmkKGrHqYOKjgE0dTfBV5BNS7il8pQw_3.jpg

CEGTSg2kKGrHqYOKp0E0VKo5JQ9BNS7e2Zy_3.jpg

during the build, this is the old pipework setup

SAM_0521.jpg

cheers guys

hunting around $14500 neg give me a decent offer i will consdier it.

still rego'd. but no RWC with the purchase

PLATES NOT FOR SALE WITH CAR!!!!!

im in victoria in west gippsland, i will post when viewing is available and the car is done.

can sms offers to me @ 0408678744

Edited by OMY31T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/379826-1995-r33-gtst-qiknlo/
Share on other sites

got a few more photos of it and a short video of it running. in the video theres some weird echos, i can assure you its not the engine, its running perfectly. i gave it a bit of a rev even though its cold to show that its blowing no smoke at all and the turbo/engine is in good nic. the engine sounds a bit tinny comapred to normal and it makes the engine sound a bit tappy, like the lifters are noisy, i can also assure that they are not, only the normal amount of noise mainly from injector and spark pulses.

IMAG0132.jpg

IMAG0134.jpg

IMAG0135.jpgsd

IMAG0136.jpg

IMAG0138.jpg

this is the damage to the roof from the bonnet flipping up.

IMAG0140.jpg

IMAG0141.jpg

and a short video

p.s theres a couple of others videos, some are during the build and before it was tuned and another with the old GT30 setup. none of these are with the rebuilt gearbox

Edited by OMY31T

i may consider selling the car with the box as is for around $11000. to repair the box back to stock which will handle around 300-350rwkw including a reco torque converter, i was quoted $2500, or around the same price to do a manual conversion including all parts.

make me an offer. car goes in on the 26th for the box rebuild(waiting for torque converter to be made by tce.)

the car still drives ok in 1st and second gear, its just the 3/4 clutch drum slips. if you want to put in another auto, your looking at about $300 to buy one, but the gearbox in the car has already had about 3.5k worth of work done, has a stage 2 KEAS shift kit in it(semi automatic).

a change of plans has made me able to drop the price of the car. im just trying to cover the cost of my other car, and i can now drop the car down to $9500ono as is. i need it gone, pm me, sms me, make me an offer. the gearbox is a pain in the ass, but the car has had well ove 15k worth of mods done. throw in a manual, get it retuned, easy 300rwkw car.

look up the other builds with this setup. search "kando dynamics".

forgot to mention the car has a 2 month old battery, oil change, oil filter, fuel filter,new fuel pump sock,cooling system flushed and new plugs less than 1000km's ago

the car can be looked at this weekend, i will be home, but no tyre kickers, serious buyers only.

call me on the mobile number above or text me to arrange a time.

Edited by OMY31T
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...