Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i'm in the process of getting an r33 gtst in 3 weeks time but from all the forums that iv been reading these past week seems like almost everybody is agreeing that r33 gtst is quite slow and usually get beaten easily with evos, supras, ,wrx,dc2&dc5 and apparently even preludes so these is making me confused if im gna get it at all....some say depends on how much you put work and upgrades into it and it will reveal the guaranteed speed and power skylines are known for..... so these were the upgrades on these current r33 that im getting in 3 weeks time.

includes :

Engine : RB25DET

-Transmission : Automatic

-Turbo : High Mount T3/T4

-Intercooler : Apexi

-TurboSmart Boost Controller

-Bosch Fuel Pump

-Exhaust : Tanabe

-Body Kit : Full Veilside Body Kit

-Wheels : 18inch

Car made around 220kw on the Dyno last year

just wanted to know if these is enough or who do i beat with these power so il know when,who or not to step on the accelerator.....need your advice and opinion on these guys...thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380761-need-answers-guys/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Firstly I hope your not planning to race on public roads,

Secondly AUTO ewwwww why you would want an automatic skyline is beyond me

Thirdly 220rwkws is definitely enough to beat all the cars you've listed IF they are stock

And lastly even on stock form an R33 is not going to lose to a prelude

So if your planning on racing at the track on a drag strip why would buy an auto? Half the fun of drag racing is timing the gear changes?

Also you said you want to know when to put your foot down,

so if your at the drag strip and you are up against a car that can beat you, when the lights go green are you just gonna sit there cause the other car is faster than you?

cmon guys i may be new to skyline but i aint that stupid lol....the car obviously comes with auto already and i like these car so auto or manual doesnt really bother me cuz i can always convert it later on and when i say put my foot down is basically just an expression of who i can beat because all the cars that mentioned before are my mates cars and they definitely not stock....

and its got the report from dyno that it made 220kws last year so when i get it im gna get it tuned again....and yes it has a high mount turbo and whats wrong with veilside bodykit? dont get it.....?

Seriously dude look for a manual there would be heaps out there,

Otherwise your basically buying it for looks

And I can't see any hondas unless they have

"about a hundred grand under the bonnet" lol

beating and r33 with a front mount intercooler full exhaust and a bit more boost

LMAO....do need it for looks to :]....and on regards to honda prelude my mate doesnt own it iv read it on one of the forums yesterday an r33 owner admitting he was wrong for underestimating the prelude cuz apparently it raped him.....and these iwhat the car i was thinking of getting what do u think? :]

He must have forgotten what the accelerator was

Cause my mechanic was tuning a late model prelude that has had easily over $40k spent on it (what a waste)

And with a turbo and aftermarket ecu it still only does 180kws at the front wheels,

And regards to looks I would take a stock looking r33 that was manual over a NICE looking auto one any day of the year

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...