Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can some one please tell me if the crank angle sensor are interchangable from series 1 to series 2 the reason i ask is i had new cams installed and they are a series 2 version and the keyhole didnt line up and taking the cams back was not a option so i ended having to buy a newer crank angle sensor. My mechanic and i got everything back together this arv and car will not start just turns over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381276-cas-help/
Share on other sites

95% sure it's a complete swap. All 4 wires have to be changed as if the plug was upside down

Maybe start with that and if it doesn't work I'll actually take the time to get you a pinout. Changing wires takes about 1 minute. That includes 30 seconds of beer drinking

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381276-cas-help/#findComment-6081412
Share on other sites

Cheers for that, Only problem is car still wont start..... changed plugs, checked for spark,fuel, than did compression test and found that my cylinder that read 140 psi only has 40 psi WTF! I think the cause was while we were trying to get the car started it flushed the bore with fuel also did a leak down test and found some leakage in the valves I really am not having a good day..............................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381276-cas-help/#findComment-6081944
Share on other sites

No, it takes months of rich running to abrasively smooth a bore - or during ring bed-in.

Valve leakage is not always a problem, the valve rarely seats in the same place twice in half a dozen rotations

If your CAS is wrong, it will also not be injecting fuel or sparking so it's not possible to be overfueling the bore. Have you checked for injector pulse and spark and had a result. I know I like to assume you do actually have it when you say you tested for it but I have been surprised before

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381276-cas-help/#findComment-6082276
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...