Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Can anyone help?

I am after an "idiots guide" to these following numbers. I know its for changing the boost but it will allow you to change both?!

I appear to have put my manual "somewhere safe" and can't find it.

Thanks in advance...

G.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38185-regarding-powerfc-boost-control-kit/
Share on other sites

The second numbers you have highlighted is the Duty Cycle. This is basically the amount of time the solenoid stays open (bleeds) in realation to the amount of time it is shut and allows boost pressure to the wastegate. It is expressed as a percentage.

The minimum you can set (from memory) is 10%, which would be sending boost pressure to the solenoid 90% of the time, bleeding 10% of the time - it would be used for low boost pressure.

The maximum you can set is 90%, which has boost pressure going to the wastegate 10% of the time and bleeding 90% of the time.

If the boost is spiking (I would put money on it in your case, those duty cycles seem very, very high for those boost pressures), you need to adjust the duty cycle down.

If the boost is lazy, or it isnt reaching full boost, you will need to adjust the duty cycle up.

If you change your boost pressure up, adjust the duty cycle up at the same time, if down, adjust the duty cycle down. The power fc has a self learning mode, which will optimise the solenoid actuation for optimum boost control BUT, if you are miles out of the ball park, it wont have a chance. For example, if I adjust my boost pressure up by .2KG, I usually adjust my duty cycle up 4%. then just monitor on the peak hold, if it is spiking (more than .1kg) I will adjust the duty cycle down by 2%. If it isnt getting to boost, I adjust duty cycle up by 2% at a time, until it is just spinking a little (less than .1kg) - from there I let the power fc learn for itself.

If you ever need a copy of the english manual (although its for an RX-7) one is available on line at he apexi usa website, look under electronics, then documentation or someting like that.

  • 2 months later...

Is it also true that running boost above 1 or 1.2 bar using 3rd party boost controller and PowerFC will cause your engine check light on the dash to light on, because PowerFC could not monitor the boost anymore? The only remedy is using the dedicated Apexi boost control option that connects straight to the PowerFC, is this true or not?

The 255 value is the 'learning value' isnt it?

Not quite sure what it corresponds to so I think it is more of an arbitrary value than anything else. I can tell when mine is learning cos you can see this value changing & then it stays put once it has learnt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...