Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya there :)

I'm selling my RB26 as a long motor to make way for a built engine.

Motor has done ~84k kms with even compression across all cylinders.

When the car arrived in Oz it had an oil cooler fitted straight away. I've done some track work with it and have decided to step up to a built engine. I have a 9L baffled and extended sump on the engine at the moment so there's no oil starve issue.

It's been tuned by HITman (a personal friend of mine for nearly 15yrs) with a Haltech Platinum Pro and made 317kw at the wheels on 19psi with -7s (standard intercooler/cams/MAFs and airbox fitted)

With a screwdriver handle holding open the airbox we saw over 330kw, whoever says GTR airboxes aren't restrictive need to buy a screwdriver and do some testing...)

It does have the following:

N1 water pump

Yellow Jacket coils (not even 1000km old)

Adjustable cam gears with new Gates belt and idler replaced a few thousand km ago.

Nismo thermostat

Also comes with coil cover, not shown in pics.

This motor is still in the car and can be driven before buying (no deposit on you, no ride, simple)

Obviously no turbos, exhaust manifolds, clutch/pressureplate.

Next problem is that I'll be away until Jan 16th, so don't expect any replies other than the random email till then. I'm sure we can work something out if you're super keen.

$2000, as it's in the car and you can drive it before it's removed. Better than a 'stab in the dark ebay special' with a photocopied dyno sheet!!

Mark :)

post-28560-0-46918000-1324101356_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-02027100-1324101350_thumb.jpg

post-28560-0-95208600-1324101417_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...