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Pickup's from Runcorn/South Brisbane-can drop them off locally

All serious offer's will be considered

-17x10+15 lenso D1R rims in VGC

Sprayed gloss black-can add two 80% 235-45-17 Federal 595's for extra $$$

$430 ono

-Pair VGC 17x8 +38 Lenso D1R rims-both look almost new

Just fitted with near new 225/45/17 Federal 595 tyres-will sell rims seperatly

$500 ono

-3xRAYS Gram Light's T57RG 17x8+43

Two rims are near new/no gutter rash or damage at all-fitted with 60% 215/45/17 Nankang tyres-both abit camber worn

Other rim rim is allgood except for a bit of light rash on edge

$300 ono

-Pair of WORK Meister 17x8 +40 S2R's

One rim has a bit of gutter rash in a section on outside edge-no biggie-other rim doesn't

Both Bridgestone Potenza REO5OA 225/45/17 tyres are about 60% now

Still on my r33-rims sit inside stock rear gaurds

$300 ono

-Pair DMAX 17x8 5 spoke rims

Sprayed black-no gutter rash

One rim has very slight flatspot

$130 ono

-Random 17x8+38 white mesh rims-no rash or damage-good skidders

$80 ono

-Stock s15 16x6.5 wheels in VGC-original silver paint

Only on rim has section of light gutter rash-rest are allgood

All tyres are 205-55-16 so good for AWD cars too

Two tyres are almost new-two are at least 50%

$470 ono

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Also have these-there not going to fit my s14 without major camber adjustment's...

-Near mint 18x10+22 Lenso D1R rims-silver spokes 30mm chrome dish

Fitted with about 70% 225/40/18 tyres-bit camber worn

Can in include pair of brand new 235/45/18 Gemstone's for extra cash

$530 ono

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
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    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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