Jump to content
SAU Community

Sly insurance bs

hayai32

By hayai32,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

hayai32 Collaborator

hayai32

Posted
Posted

Rang up j/c insurance today checking if it was ok to cut out my front bar for a fmic and they said... "we will cover anything as long as its legal"... which got me thinkin... Does that mean that if i crash and make a claim it will void my cover for having a BOV, turbo timer, boost controller etc...? which i have told them i have on my car. Any1 know the deal with this?

ps. is it legal to cut ur front bar? i got a 32 type m bar and wanna cut it up to level with where the liscence plate finishes and move the plate down to 1 side.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38688-sly-insurance-bs/
Share on other sites
EnricoPalazzo Grand Master

EnricoPalazzo

Posted
Posted

its a funny quesion that one, as over in sa, things like bov are illegal whilst quite acceptable interstate. I think as long as u have already listed the modfications made to the car, u will be fine.

I know of alot of modifed cars that have had payouts or been repaired which have had "illegal" mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38688-sly-insurance-bs/#findComment-783622
Share on other sites
chops Experienced

chops

Posted
Posted

It comes down to the assesor really, and how hard they want to try to get out of the claim.

If your car is in a state that renders it illegal under the laws of the state you are driving it in, then driving your car is an illegal activity.

Your policy will contain a clause stating that they reserve the right to void the policy if being used for illegal activity.

This means that, if you have an atmo BOV in SA, your insurance company CAN void your policy. Not saying that they will, but it is within their rights, as they state to you in the disclosure statement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/38688-sly-insurance-bs/#findComment-783825
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Did and sync timing with light 
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • MBS206
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By MBS206 · Posted

      You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...