Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pulled this off another forum for reference with the boost control kit. my question is in post 2

The R33 RB25 is L-jetro.

Below is a bunch of information about boost controller kit for the Power FC. I do not know if the GReddy MAP or Valve will work. I purchased a used APEXi AVC-R controller and a new APEXi boost controller kit harness and installed it as the boost controller add on kit for my Power FC. This is the closest you will be able to get to the D-jetro MAP sensor system as you can get without going full stand alone like AEM or whatever have you. I also highly recommend purchasing a FC datalogit box so that you can connect a laptop up and get full program ability out of the Power FC unit. The FC Datalogit box is far superior to the FC Commander(hand controller).

APEXi 415-A001 Boost Controller Kit:

For those of us with the APEXi Power FC the 415-A001 kit is the add on kit we can get to control our boost level.

Resized to 20% (was 500 x 375) - Click image to enlarge

"

POWER FC - FAQ by Paulr33 @ SAU

I was searching for the APEXi part numbers when I ran across this FAQ on Google.

Map Sensor:

499-X001

Valve:

499-X003

Harness:

49C-A002

Exerpts from Paulr33's website

The optional boost controller kit for the Power FC consists of the pressor sensor, pressure sensor harness and solenoid. The solenoid should be plumbed between your manifold and the wastegate actuator (internal wastegate setup). For external wastegate setup it should be plumbed between the manifold and your external wastegate pressure line. The pressure sensor should be plumbed in parrallel with the factory MAP sensor which is used by your standar boost guage.

The solenoid has two labels on it, you should match them accordingly

COM line should goto wastegate actuator

NO line should goto intercooler piping

It can be T'eed into the plumbing with its included T piece fitting.

Boost Controller Kit Type #1

3 wire plug, Solenoid runs to stock boost control loom on stock ECU wiring loom.

3 wires in Apexi loom are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power

Boost Controller Kit Type #2

5 wire plug, Solenoid runs to map sensor harness which runs to Boost Controller port on PowerFC

3 wires are for Map sensor - Signal, Ground and Power. 2 Wires are for Solenoid Power and Ground

Skyline RB25DET PowerFC and GTR RB26 Uses Type #1

The pressure sensor has the main wiring harness directly attached to itself, one end plugs into the 5 pin port on the PowerFC. The solenoid piggybacks off the Pressure Sensor wiring harness which leads to the PowerFC connector port. The wiring is shown below.

MAP Sensor

Red = Positive

Black = Negative (earth)

Green = Signal

Solenoid

Pink = Positive

Black = Negative

When the solenoid wiring meets with the Map Sensor harness the colours for the Soneoid change as follows;

Pink = Red

Black = Brown

Boost Control Kit - Parts Inventory

Resized to 9% (was 1226 x 879) - Click image to enlarge

Boost Control Kit - Complete Kit

Resized to 13% (was 800 x 588) - Click image to enlarge

Boost Control Kit - MAP Sensor

Resized to 13% (was 800 x 398) - Click image to enlarge

Boost Control Kit - Solenoid

Resized to 13% (was 800 x 698) - Click image to enlarge

Apexi PowerFC - Plug Layout

Resized to 55% (was 184 x 71) - Click image to enlarge

"Boost display without the Boost Control Kit?

By default as the PowerFC will not show boost pressure as it has no method of reading it in via the stock ECU loom. If you purchase a suitable map sensor and connect it to the PowerFC boost control kit port then the hand controller will display boost pressure. The boost control kit uses a Denso map sensor which is part #DPS 310 2000a - Denso 949940 6270 5V and the wiring loom cable/plug can be brought from Apexi which is around $40 AU. The cable is listed as the 3pin boost control harness. Nengun has this listed under Electronics -> Apexi -> D Jetro Option Parts

Alternatively below is the pin out diagram for the Boost Control Kit port. This is for the 3 pin version only. I am unsure of the pinouts for the 5 pin version.

Resized to 32% (was 320 x 240) - Click image to enlarge

1 = Voltage+

2 = Signal

3 = Ground

"

I have done this on my car and it works correctly. I used the boost control kit harness ($30 new) and the Boost Control kit Map sensor and stepper motor. I connected them up using the supplied plugs & loom and plug it into the PowerFC Boost Control kit port. I purchased the Wire harness 3 pin for ~$25 dropped shipped from APEX integration. The plug on the valve will not just plug into the R33 S2 plug on my car for the stock solenoid. You will have to cut your AVC type R controller harness and solder the APEXi valve plug to your engine harness so it will work. I have supplied the wire colors needed to do this and a multimeter will quickly tell you which wire is the + wire for the stock valve and the ECU controls ground. I also rerouted the valve vent which you will be instructed to vent to atmosphere to vent into the BOV return tube as Nissan had done from the factory.

As far as the timing advance goes I have not touched the stock ignition or fuel maps in the PFC. I can get it to knock at high rpms(5K+) under full throttle under heavy load. I would venture to say if your fuel system is setup correctly that light driving under stock conditions would be okay. I have noticed that the stock map settings are on the rich side of things, probably as a safety precaution. I've seen it go to low 11AFRs under heavy foot operation with both my wide and narrow band.

Hopefully this will help you.

0

  • 1 year later...

can i simply wire the MAP signal wire from the AVCR MAP sensor to the correct pin on the 3 pin power fc i have so i can display and log the boost correctly on fc edit?

cheers

I was thinking something similar. Taking the signal boost wire from my bnr34 mfd to the green signal 3 pin power FC port.

All I want to be able to do is log boost in FCC datalogit.

Hopefully Paul can review the idea

Edited by BarbsGTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...