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Hey guys and girls, Got a bunch of stuff in the garage that ive collected over the years from the cars ive stripped, but its time to get rid of them.

- Pair of R34 GTT headlights both are in very good condition, RH headlight has one mounting tab missing. They come with the eyelids eyebrows whatever theyre called. painted bayside blue $700 ONO

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- Pair of R34 GTT front 4 piston calipers, were taken off an R34 with 60,000kms Very good condition, seals intact etc.. Comes with mounting bolts and pads that look very new. $320

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- Genuine Garrett 2530 turbo, dont know where i got this from its been that long! Dont know whats wrong with it but looks like it definitely needs a rebuild. Both compressor wheels look fine. Comes as you see it, no waste-gate actuator. $200 ONO

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- WORK VS KF $2600

The wheels are chrome, only one of them is sprayed black to see what it would look like. Can be easily removed with turps.

Fronts are 19X10 +12 offset 10cm dish. Rears are 19X11 +13 offset 12cm dish

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- Standard R34 tail lights good condition $150

- Complete set of 4 standard R34 GTT shocks, came off an R34 with 60,000km on the clock, rubbers etc intact no leaks or knocks! $250 ONO

- R33 GTST inlet manifold mostly comes with throttle body and sensors etc $100 Sorry no pics at the moment but will get some if required?!

CONTACT me on 0432544363 if you want a quick reply as im fairly busy Or alternatively PM me

Edited by RJ06

Also got a pair of Series 3 R33 GTR tail lights, Has a red foglight where the reverse light is. $200

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  • 1 month later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage. The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out
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    • So now doing the change and first time dealing with rb so little nervous giving engine power and potential for screwing it up When you align all marks and then remove crank bolt, timing move little I assume you can put the bolt back in once you have removed the pully to get timing to where you want?   here is pic of my both intake and exchust cam aligned, depending on angle you look they seem to be either aligned or a half tooth or so out. Any thoughts? Should you angle your face and look at each mark that way as if looking straight rather than from above as it can be misleading   <a href="https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/HfWrGR9b/IMG-4447.jpg" alt="IMG-4447" border="0"></a> <a href="https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/JWBqWwr1/IMG-4445.jpg" alt="IMG-4445" border="0"></a>   https://ibb.co/ZpnhcvbF https://ibb.co/4wm2wn4q
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
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