Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys new to this site and really need some input here. Recently rebuild engine and have pretty much gone through every system on the car and cannot figure out this idle problem.

The engine is pretty much stock other than wiseco 86.5mm pistons, tomei oil restrictor, arp head and main studs, crank collar added to machined and polished crank, acl race series rod and main bearings. I used an oem nissan complete gasket kit and replaced every single gasket, seal, o-ring, and washers. Valves seals were also replaced.

I bought the car without and engine, found a blown engine and rebuilt it. The cams as far as I could tell were stock as the engine was completely stock so why would someone put cams in and nothing else. Anyway the engine was built, installed and runs great other than this lumpy idle. It runs better when warm but when cold it's really rough but the idle is dead on and the needle is not hunting up and down, its just a rough idle.

When warm it's alot better but still has a slight miss and is lumpy. I have to turn the idle up to about 1200rpm to smooth it out but it still has a slight miss and not as much up a lumpy idle. The video's I posted were taken today and I had set the idle down to about 1000rpm to get the lumpy idle. I wanted take the video when I first started the car this morning but the battery on the camera was dead. You can also hear a erratic valve tick over the regular valve tick(no so much outside the car but when inside you can here the erratic tick). Anyway I ready need some help with this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399240-r32-gtr-lumpy-idle-videos/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
    • Doing a +T on my car and I’ve read the precious forums lots of mixed reviews from sometime back.  checking if anyone has any ideas for airbox or enclosed pod filter or solutions?  I was thinking stock GTT box but some say it’s restrictive? I seen some people try fit in a pod in the box anyone done that recently?  not any good enclosed options ? Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...