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rb20x6 coilpacks 1 is faulty $100

r32 gts-t front guards one black other in primer $250

x2 r32 rear bumper $50

rear tail lights (no covers) $100

wagan boot spoiler for any r32 painted white brand new $250

starter motor $50

momo black plain steering wheel $50

r32 sunroof spoiler has a crack on the corner glue it and wont even notice it $150 very rare

gts-t boot no spoiler or lock. dark blue $20 will need a respray

r32 rb20 stock afm $100

hicas lock bar $50 fit most cars

bride brix 2 (i think) $600 can come with r31 rail.

Redback highflow cat $100. Used condition.

watanabes 15x7+27 all around ok tread. 4x114.3 slight bend in 1 100% useable

r32 white boot with gts wing perfect condition brand new paint $200.

Idale air valve control rb20 $50

Rb20 butterfly with tps $80

Rb20 tps $40

Rda r32 slotted rotors front pair only used for 20 days. Still have box pretty new.$180

Rb25 cas $20

rb25 coil pack cover $20

Rb25 90 degree elbow before fmic piping with bov. $50

Rb20 intake plenuim $50

Type r gauges and senders. All wiring all work. $150 the lot..

pickup hoppers crossing victoria.

can post most items anywhere in australia if you pay.

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Wing.jpg

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r32 dark blue boot::::needs respray $30

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bride/recaro fixed seat adapter $40

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sr20/s13 front pipe flex gktech brand $50

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pair of rims 17x7+47 black look pretty good.

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4x114.3 anz rims gutter rash on all average condition all passed rwc. really good tread $350...spent a lot on tyres.

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r32 sunroof spoiler $150

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    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
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