Jump to content
SAU Community

[Vic] White 95' Manual Sz-R Toyota Supra - 15K - P Plate Legal - Or Trade For V35 Sedan (Black/white Only)

Converge
 Share

Recommended Posts

Converge Community Regular

Converge

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hello fellow members,

Up for sale is my White, 5 speed, 95', SZ-R Supra,

- 100K service has been done.

- Koya Drift Teks wrapped in Nitto NT05's [F] 8.5 [R] 9.5

- Fuel filter

- Oil filter,

- Oil (Fully synthetic)

- Spark plugs

- Dizzy rotor

- Toyota red coolant

- Brake fluid

- Clutch fluid

- Gearbox oil (Redline)

- Front and rear rotors

- Front and rear brake pads

- Rear hatch rubbers

- Dynamated doors

- MVP Lip color matched

- Tailored floor mats with heel pad

- New Bond battery just a few weeks ago.

All/most the above have been changed/installed less than 5000K's ago, all you would really need to do is change the Diff oil which can be done in less than 10mins, I just haven't had time.

Reason for selling is I need a 4X4 for work.

She has been a great car and turns a lot of heads, you won't have any issues with the popo, everything is stock (Sorta) and the exhaust isn't very loud.

I haven't been pulled over once with my red P's *touches wood* and I work a block away from my towns main Police "HQ".

Currently registered until Sep this year.

She has 110K on the clock and drives perfectly, BUT suspension is knocking in the rear.

The only real cons are:

- Suspension knock

- Some paint flaws, but as you can tell from the pic she looks perfect.

- Antennae doesn't work (Extend/Retract)

Any questions feel free to ask.

Exterior:

- Stock body kit

- TRD Wing w/ Carbon Fibre Blade

- MVP Lip color matched

- Updated Series II Rear tailights

- Updated Series II Front headlights

- Updated Series II Clear front indicators

- Front Driver & Passenger windows tinted 35% (darkest legal tint)

- 18" Koya Drift Teks wrapped in Nitto NT05's ([F] 8.5 [R] 9.5) (Will also include stockies),

- Kipoint HID Xenon Lights 8000k

Interior:

- Leather front seat wrap- green/black two tone

- OEM Supra steering wheel

- Anti-Theft Alarm 3point Immobliser System, programmed so windows will auto wind up when car is locked.

- Tailored floor mats with heel pad.

- Carpets dyed black

Sound system:

- JL Audio C2-600 front speakers (splits)

- Kicker 350.4 channel Amplifier

- JL Audio CP112-W0v2 Subwoofer systems

- Pioneer DEH-5250SD

- Sub has a moulded LH rear enclosure now

Performance:

- Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

- DNK Extractors with Heat Proof Coating

- 2.5inch Mid Pipe.

- 3inch Varex Cat-back exhaust

- OEM Torsen LSD

- OEM Bilstein Suspension

- Eagle Spark Leads.

- Replaced spark plugs & valve cover seals

vabc0.jpg

img0012oe.jpg

img0013gc.jpg

img0014tl.jpg

img0015ik.jpg

img0016qm.jpg

I have taken delivery of my new ute, BUT I am in no hurry to sell, will only sell if price is right OR someone is willing to trade for a 2003+ V35 Sedan (Black or White), I would actually prefer trade.

*Willing to remove parts to drop price*

Edited by Converge
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Converge Community Regular

Converge

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

14K, no RWC though (No time), everything will pass except for exhaust (Have one that will pass, which will be included) and rear tyres *might* need replacing.

Other than that she will be good for a new home. smile.png

For those interested, when I got the car I did a compression test, all were well within spec (around 180).

Edited by Converge

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...