Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here it is im getting rid of my 31 that was going to comply but dont have the time to work on let alone drive, so, as the car is going so must the parts, too much to take pics of but can mms no problem :)

BM44(no abs)- $90

R33 Gtst discs and calipers with short lines- $400 (inc BMC 450)

HR31 lower garnish- $30

Passage grille mint***(suit s1/2 31)- $120

HR31 rear garnish(hotplates) with lights- $160

Gtsr badge *new- $35

Silo interior(door cards, lock surrounds, winders etc,bench,front seats, some boot carpets) NO PLASTICS MINT****- $120

NEW BITS:

Pedders sports ryder front and rear springs- $130 pair

Pedders sports ryder front and rear shocks- $150 pair

Garage7 conversion hubs with brackets/bolts etc- $400

Neochro R40- $250

Uras copy kit suit 31(skirts need modify)- $600

RDA slotted gtst 33 front rotors- $280

Willing to post smaller stuff at buyers expense but prefer pick-up or for small fee happy to deliver if your a local adelaidian and pretty much all prices are neg bar neochro, kit and hubs

you can reply here but rarely on so im easy to catch on either: [email protected] or 0401868295 prefer phone or sms as im usually out.

post-89649-0-14275800-1341282014_thumb.jpg

post-89649-0-44671000-1341282069_thumb.jpg

post-89649-0-45409900-1341282078_thumb.jpg

post-89649-0-13463100-1341282098_thumb.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Passage grille, springs and shocks gone, kit gone, bbs gone, interior gone price drop on 33 brakes and calipers inc BM44 $300 fresh machined

ALSO!!!!!!

I have a mint set of drift teks no rash 2 white 2 black with new tread all round hasnt seen a k at all since fitted owes near 1500+ make an offer need the cash people get keeennnnn!!

Ok here it is im getting rid of my 31 that was going to comply but dont have the time to work on let alone drive, so, as the car is going so must the parts, too much to take pics of but can mms no problem :)

BM44(no abs)- $90

R33 Gtst discs and calipers with short lines- $400 (inc BMC 450)

HR31 lower garnish- $30

Passage grille mint***(suit s1/2 31)- $120

HR31 rear garnish(hotplates) with lights- $160

Gtsr badge *new- $35

Silo interior(door cards, lock surrounds, winders etc,bench,front seats, some boot carpets) NO PLASTICS MINT****- $120

NEW BITS:

Pedders sports ryder front and rear springs- $130 pair

Pedders sports ryder front and rear shocks- $150 pair

Garage7 conversion hubs with brackets/bolts etc- $400

Neochro R40- $250

Uras copy kit suit 31(skirts need modify)- $600

RDA slotted gtst 33 front rotors- $280

Willing to post smaller stuff at buyers expense but prefer pick-up or for small fee happy to deliver if your a local adelaidian and pretty much all prices are neg bar neochro, kit and hubs

you can reply here but rarely on so im easy to catch on either: [email protected] or 0401868295 prefer phone or sms as im usually out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...