Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

helo,.

this is from my personal gtr34,and this is some of the parts for sale.

pls email for parts pictures

[email protected]

and i have got many more,coz the car was rebuit, and do also have many carbon parts,

pls do go to my facebook acc shah shahotto for picturs,coz it is too many to upload.

thank u

shahotto

.

A

USED –PARTS FOR SALE

1 GTR34 2001, gearbox 6speed used for sale from GTR34

2 1 used oil cooler for GTR34

3 1 used intercoller for GTR34

4 1 used turbo pipeing form GTR34

5 1 used power fc for GTR34

6 3 pc used standard turbo for GTR34

7 1 used 4wheel split controler GTR34/33/32 OR ANY 4WHEELS

8 1 used but never used very nice RB26 R33GTR engine for sale for GTR32/33/34

9 1 used set ganador carbon side mirrors L/R for GTR34

10 1 used FIELD electronic torque split for GTR34

11 1 used A'pexi auto time for NA and turbo for GTR34

12 1 used O2 sensors for GTR34

13 1 used twin plate ogura clutch condition 95% good for GTR34

14 1 used front carbon bonnet for GTR34

15 1 used olin suspension 380 degrees for GTR34

16 1 used koyo readitor

17 1 set vttr 6port F/R

18 1 set LMGT4

19 1 used blowoff valve

B

BODYPARTS –NISMO Z-tune

16 nismo z –tune bumper

17 nismo side skirt

18 nismo overfender

19 nismo fender L/R

20 nismo rear back L/R spoiler

21 1 used ganado titanium exhaust fullest

22 1 full set diffuser part 1 and part 2

23 1 set nismo LED tail light

24 1 set nismo meter white

thank u.

.

Edited by shahotto
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408026-helo2-im-from-malaysia/
Share on other sites

Oh let me help AGAIN -

THE DO'S AND DONT'S OF THE SAU CLASSIFIEDS!

Be warned that any threads that do not adhere to the following WILL be deleted without any prior warning.

Key point - Post in the RIGHT section. WTB is WTB section, and FS in FS section.

Post in the wrong section, your thread will be locked, its pretty basic common sense

Private Sellers

1. When starting a new thread, you must include a set price, or at the very least a ballpark figure that you are looking for. EOI's are not permitted, if you want to auction your gear then use e-bay

2. Clearly state what what it is you are selling, the condition of the parts being sold, any model specific information, your location, contact details and wether you will ship interstate. If the items are not as they as described upon arrival and a resolution not met. You will potentially fall under, and be added too, the bad trader listing

3. No continuous thread bumping! - If you insist on continually bumping your thread, your bumps will be deleted and if it continues, you will receive a warning from moderators

4. Post photos! - Where possible, add images to your post. This is by far the best way to show off the items you are selling and give any potential buyers the best indication as to their condition etc.

Posting photos will also cut out the "pics please" comments and help you to sell your items faster and easier

5. If you have multiple items for sale, post them all in a single thread! - do not create new threads for each item. A single thread is much easier to manage and helps reduce the amount of clutter in the classifieds section!

6. No posting on behalf of others! - If your mates want to advertise their parts here on SAU, tell them to register - If you dont own it, dont post it for sale.

7. No external links! - Do not post links to items being sold on e-bay, or other forums. If you wish to start a thread advertising the same items on SAU, you must include all details and price in your thread. Asking people to refer to e-bay for more info is not acceptable. If you're too lazy to copy and paste the details on here, your thread will be deleted.

8. Your for sale thread must include a valid contact number, name and email address.

9. DO NOT delete the original advertisment post in For Sale threads, even if the item is sold.

Failure to adhere to this rule will result in the revokation of the ability to edit your own posts.

10. Multiple Threads - If you have more than one item to sell, use one thread only. DO NOT create one thread per item. If this is done, Mod/Admin will merge your threads without notice/warning. Having half a page of single item sales is pointless and clogs the forum.

helo,..

thank u and it is much batter and more clear with this info,and it is a very good info,.

and it is batter then saying " go away ",.!!

thank u very much 34gee tee tee,

like i said yesterday im new in the forums, yes i will correct my mistake

thank u

shahottto

.

Edited by shahotto
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...