Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Up for sale is my R33 GTS-T, I am only selling as I am getting married and need the car gone. I bought this car with a 500rwhp project in mind, it currently is running 389.8 rwhp on a safe tune at 19psi (15psi on wastegate without boost controller) as it is my everyday drive. I have just completed the 100 000k service (timing belt, new water pump etc..), service every 5000k's using Nulons. I have also just had it tuned by Pits performance (Matty Spry). There is a long list of mods/extras, I will try to list all of them: Recent respray in Nissan silver, factory sunroof (does not leak!), Series 2 front bar, Clear Nismo side indicators, GTR style side skirts and rear bar side pods, Dark window tint, 18 inch wheels, 225 front (worn on inside due to negative camber), 265 rear (80%), Lowered suspension, Full custom exhaust (with cat), Front and rear strut braces, HICAS lock out bar, Racing clutch, FMIC, Nissan Q45 throttle body, Garrett GT3572R turbo, high flowed head, Aftermarket inlet plenum, High mount exhaust manifold, Super spark coilpacks, Custom turbo inlet, Oil catch can, pod air filter, Turbosmart Fuel pressure regulator, Turbosmart BOV, Bosh 044 external fuel pump, Swirl can, custom external fuel pump and swirl pot enclosure which stops fuel vapor entering the cabin, GTR internal fuel pump, Top inlet injectors (not sure on size), Aftermarket fuel rail, Apexi AVCR, GFB external wastegate (set at 15 psi, 50mm I think), screamer pipe, Custom dump pipe from back of turbo, heat wrap/hose on dump pipe and hoses around the turbo (needs a tidy up cosmetically!) Apexi water temp and boost gauge in pillar pod (gauges are copies, they are there to fill the holes for the moment), Full Microtech LT12s computer and harness, New 4 line blue hand controller, Alpine CD player, Rockford Fosegate 6 and half splits front, 6x9 rear (not sure of brand), Interior is what you would expect for its age but still quiet tidy. This is what I can think of off the top of my head, there is a lot of work I can not list as it was completed before I bought the car (internals for example). I would be happy to explain more over the phone. I am asking $13 400 but I am negotiable as I need it gone. Thanks for looking. Nathan 0404 816 343

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408945-for-sale-400rwhp-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...