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Red top SR20DET Long motor 100,000kms, with Loom $1200 (excluding turbo, injectors)

Have a vid of engine running and have had a compression test done

S13 Redtop ecu with Nistune $350

Garret GT3071R Turbo, .86 rear housing, 52 trim, Mint cond no shaft play $950

SARD 550cc injectors $400

SARD adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with earls fittings and adaptor $160

GENUINE Z32 Air Flow Meter $150 (no plug)

Walbro 255L/H Fuel pump $100

Can do all of the above as a full package ready to drop in for $3000, good for 240 – 250rwkw

3inch one piece dump and front pipe with O2 sensor $120

3inch stainless Fuitsubo exhaust with hi flow muffler and gutted cat $250

Turbosmart 38mm sleeper series dual port blow off valve $250

Greddy Profec B spec II Boost controller $300 ( pretty much brand new )

NEW Pod filter $50

Greddy catch can $50

DRIVELINE

Tomei 2 way diff in housing Housing ( 5 bolt ), 4.11 ratio $750

S13 gearbox 100,000kms $600

S13 manual tail shaft with centre bearing $100

S13 clutch master cylinder with slave and lines

S13 manual pedal box

Can do a deal for a full manual conversion minus clutch and flywheel

C's short shifter - $150

EXTERIOR

ORIGIN Roof spoiler $180

Crystal JDM tail lights $150

complete S13 Silvia doors – paint and trim in mint condition $120 each or both for $200

S13 boot lid, spoiler holes welded and has been re-painted mint $100

S13 rear stock bar with reo Mint $100

Windscreen good condition - $100

Rear window $100

16x8 genuine R32 GT-R alloys - $500

INTERIOR

S15 Rear seat complete $100

S13 Rear seats $20

Greddy GREX Gear knob $50

Black suede dished steering wheel $100

Bride Fixed back bucket, with drivers side rail (side mount)$400

Black Dash Mat $60

S13 dash mint condition no cracks or fading $200

S13 digital climate control with loom $100

SUSPENSION

Unkown rear strut brace $50

Tein HE coilovers front and rear with camber tops $750

Silk Road adjustable castor rods with rose jointed ends $100

5stud conversion with brakes

5 stud front hubs and bearings pressed onto S13 knuckles and uprights

R33 rear twin piston callipers(bendix Pads) with 5 stud hubs and drum brake set up

R32 BM44 brake master cylinder

R33 handbrake cable with adaptor plate

S15 front callipers with Bendix Ultimate pads, and RDA rotors

Total brake set up package: $700

S13 shell with damage! Has Walk in S,A Rego! (rego is for SR20DET) $800

all parts located in Adelaide, will post most items at extra cost

will have pictures up soon, can email/txt pics for now though

cheers

Walbro 255L/H Fuel pump $100

ORIGIN Roof spoiler $180

Crystal JDM tail lights $150

complete S13 Silvia doors – paint and trim in mint condition $120 each or both for $200

S13 boot lid, spoiler holes welded and has been re-painted mint $100

Can I get pics of these?

Cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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