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Hey guys I have a r32 sedan MAYBE up for grabs. Now just to make a few things clear i LOVE this car to bits, I have spent 1000's on it and will not let it go cheap if no one pays or offers another car of value to me plus cash i will not seperate . My reasons for sale are

1. I want to buy a house and the only way to get the money together would be to seperate with the 32

2. I travel at least 60k to work 7 days a week and some days 120k

3. As i travel alot its not ideal (easy to speed and be a numpty in, bit bumpy as its low, defectable)

4. MONEY its a skyline while i get 400ks to a tank its always bp ultimate ran through it which adds up quite quick with all the travel

If i havent scared you off yet lets get into the good stuff.

ENGINE / RUNNING GEAR-

-S1 RB25 Conversion done before i bought it. Believed to have 130000k. Runs beautifully and has buckets of power

-Turbosmart manual boost controller, Running 11PSI of boost

-Previous owner said it was tuned to 211kw, I have no dyno sheets for proof BUT can see it does pull very hard

-Serviced every 5000k with quality nulon oils and additives , expect the gearbox and diff which runs with redline shockproof (only serviced twice in my ownership)

-Diff has just been reshimmed very tight and never singles, Only skips when pulling out of the driveway when cold

-STD turbo

-Cold air box with a pod inside

-Clutch went pop around 5000k ago replaced with extreme HD, POS rb20 box went a week later

- 80000k RB25 box conversion was put in by me. Speedo conversion done,Solid shifter bush, new slave, custom tailshaft, custom crossmember, done about 4500k

-Very large FMIC

-3'' stainless blitz exhaust sounds very tough but not over the top, also have a 4" jasma exhaust to

I feel like there is a few things im missing but a start

BRAKES / SUSPENSION / BODY

-I recently just did the brake system on the sky which included. R33 GTR slotted and cross drilled rotors up front, Slotted back, EBC Redstuff pads on all corners, new fluid and bled. The most responsive brakes i have used, they are brilliant 2 weeks old

-Shortened shocks and springs which sits very low but not ridiculous, all shocks in good nic

-20 percent window tint all round looks moist

-Paint is very fresh and is a custom respray in Mazda 3 red paint code 27a, Brilliant red which glitters in the sun

-All four guards have been rolled and flared HEAPS had 9.5 all round at one point

-Sparco ns11 wheels on atm 8.0" on front 9" at back which doesnt do the flared guards justice but suit the car well

- Tein Adjustable camber arms front and rear

-stock kit (my favourite personally)

INTERIOR AND STEREO

Interior lets this car down a bit, missing vents, slight bubble in dash suppose it is an 89 model

-Sport wheel

-33 seat (lumber support)

-Kenwood headunit with aux

-2 2000w earthquake amps one monoblock one 4 channel

-2 kenwood 1200w subs

- alpine type s splits all round with tweeters up front

Radical sound system

$12000.

Please dont tell me if you think this is overpriced, I dont car what you think as i dont want to let it go unless i get what i want I AM IN NO HURRY and as stated its a EOI. Every time i go out and see this car i smile, I just love the 4dr look and it would be an incredible shame to see it go but i would like to buy espcially while the home owner grant is around still. SA REGO BTW

post-87113-0-80387300-1354099108_thumb.jpg

Will get more photos later

  • 2 months later...

Okie dokie, some mods i forgot

So the HD clutch crapped out, Just put a Jim berry full monty clutch in rated for 350kw. Stock pedal feel with a button feeling to it if that makes sense.

-bosch 044 fuel pump

-hicas lock bar

-R33 front LCA's

-Tein Castor rods

-nolathane control arm bushes

-Rack spacers

-Cradle bushes + pineapples + cradle mods

-40mm spacers in the back now

-gtr bonnet

-Dildo shifter

Now i understand 12 is a bit steep so price drop down to 10500. My phone doesnt take a great pic but here are some snaps

Cheers buddy! Got to stop spending money on it !

Just got new

-tie rod ends

-steering rack mount bushes ( made an incredible difference)

-two front tyres fitted

-wheel aligned at the front

also found a 4" jasma exhaust in the shed as well !

Someone make an offer e.g minus sound system 10g.post-87113-0-48318300-1360827020_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-76641800-1360827035_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-44696500-1360827047_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-20169700-1360827060_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-10531100-1360827070_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-12086800-1360827007_thumb.jpg

post-87113-0-48846700-1360827082_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Leaking exhaust manifold. Poo balls. I will put a new gasket, new studs, new nuts and machine the manifold within a month if all goes to plan (never does though). BUT if interested to take as is. $9500 !!! once fixed it will go back to its normal $10500

Oh and fresh 3 months SA rego went on a week ago

  • 2 weeks later...

Starting to get a bit more interest ! More so after cash as i have found a house i like, but because this is my only car/daily will defiantly trade in your vr,vs commys el,ef coons etc. Holla at me if u have a decent wad of cash plus a car to trade in as well !

Oh and on the 22nd of march an order for new cometic manifold gasket, 3" dump and front pipe, all turbo gaskets and exhaust gaskets, decat, new manifold studs and the manifold will also get machined !

  • 2 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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