Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have a r32 sedan MAYBE up for grabs. Now just to make a few things clear i LOVE this car to bits, I have spent 1000's on it and will not let it go cheap if no one pays or offers another car of value to me plus cash i will not seperate . My reasons for sale are

1. I want to buy a house and the only way to get the money together would be to seperate with the 32

2. I travel at least 60k to work 7 days a week and some days 120k

3. As i travel alot its not ideal (easy to speed and be a numpty in, bit bumpy as its low, defectable)

4. MONEY its a skyline while i get 400ks to a tank its always bp ultimate ran through it which adds up quite quick with all the travel

If i havent scared you off yet lets get into the good stuff.

ENGINE / RUNNING GEAR-

-S1 RB25 Conversion done before i bought it. Believed to have 130000k. Runs beautifully and has buckets of power

-Turbosmart manual boost controller, Running 11PSI of boost

-Previous owner said it was tuned to 211kw, I have no dyno sheets for proof BUT can see it does pull very hard

-Serviced every 5000k with quality nulon oils and additives , expect the gearbox and diff which runs with redline shockproof (only serviced twice in my ownership)

-Diff has just been reshimmed very tight and never singles, Only skips when pulling out of the driveway when cold

-STD turbo

-Cold air box with a pod inside

-Clutch went pop around 5000k ago replaced with extreme HD, POS rb20 box went a week later

- 80000k RB25 box conversion was put in by me. Speedo conversion done,Solid shifter bush, new slave, custom tailshaft, custom crossmember, done about 4500k

-Very large FMIC

-3'' stainless blitz exhaust sounds very tough but not over the top, also have a 4" jasma exhaust to

I feel like there is a few things im missing but a start

BRAKES / SUSPENSION / BODY

-I recently just did the brake system on the sky which included. R33 GTR slotted and cross drilled rotors up front, Slotted back, EBC Redstuff pads on all corners, new fluid and bled. The most responsive brakes i have used, they are brilliant 2 weeks old

-Shortened shocks and springs which sits very low but not ridiculous, all shocks in good nic

-20 percent window tint all round looks moist

-Paint is very fresh and is a custom respray in Mazda 3 red paint code 27a, Brilliant red which glitters in the sun

-All four guards have been rolled and flared HEAPS had 9.5 all round at one point

-Sparco ns11 wheels on atm 8.0" on front 9" at back which doesnt do the flared guards justice but suit the car well

- Tein Adjustable camber arms front and rear

-stock kit (my favourite personally)

INTERIOR AND STEREO

Interior lets this car down a bit, missing vents, slight bubble in dash suppose it is an 89 model

-Sport wheel

-33 seat (lumber support)

-Kenwood headunit with aux

-2 2000w earthquake amps one monoblock one 4 channel

-2 kenwood 1200w subs

- alpine type s splits all round with tweeters up front

Radical sound system

$12000.

Please dont tell me if you think this is overpriced, I dont car what you think as i dont want to let it go unless i get what i want I AM IN NO HURRY and as stated its a EOI. Every time i go out and see this car i smile, I just love the 4dr look and it would be an incredible shame to see it go but i would like to buy espcially while the home owner grant is around still. SA REGO BTW

post-87113-0-80387300-1354099108_thumb.jpg

Will get more photos later

  • 2 months later...

Okie dokie, some mods i forgot

So the HD clutch crapped out, Just put a Jim berry full monty clutch in rated for 350kw. Stock pedal feel with a button feeling to it if that makes sense.

-bosch 044 fuel pump

-hicas lock bar

-R33 front LCA's

-Tein Castor rods

-nolathane control arm bushes

-Rack spacers

-Cradle bushes + pineapples + cradle mods

-40mm spacers in the back now

-gtr bonnet

-Dildo shifter

Now i understand 12 is a bit steep so price drop down to 10500. My phone doesnt take a great pic but here are some snaps

Cheers buddy! Got to stop spending money on it !

Just got new

-tie rod ends

-steering rack mount bushes ( made an incredible difference)

-two front tyres fitted

-wheel aligned at the front

also found a 4" jasma exhaust in the shed as well !

Someone make an offer e.g minus sound system 10g.post-87113-0-48318300-1360827020_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-76641800-1360827035_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-44696500-1360827047_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-20169700-1360827060_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-10531100-1360827070_thumb.jpgpost-87113-0-12086800-1360827007_thumb.jpg

post-87113-0-48846700-1360827082_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Leaking exhaust manifold. Poo balls. I will put a new gasket, new studs, new nuts and machine the manifold within a month if all goes to plan (never does though). BUT if interested to take as is. $9500 !!! once fixed it will go back to its normal $10500

Oh and fresh 3 months SA rego went on a week ago

  • 2 weeks later...

Starting to get a bit more interest ! More so after cash as i have found a house i like, but because this is my only car/daily will defiantly trade in your vr,vs commys el,ef coons etc. Holla at me if u have a decent wad of cash plus a car to trade in as well !

Oh and on the 22nd of march an order for new cometic manifold gasket, 3" dump and front pipe, all turbo gaskets and exhaust gaskets, decat, new manifold studs and the manifold will also get machined !

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...