Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a few random bit for sale as i want to clean out my garage.

RB30 block & girdle, was keeping it for a 26/30 build, had a change of plans soo its not needed, has threaded holes for oil & water lines oil return ect, also has the machined face on the front for the twin cam idler pully.

$100 ono

post-86035-0-57818300-1354155232_thumb.jpgpost-86035-0-39426300-1354155277_thumb.jpgpost-86035-0-05880200-1354155542_thumb.jpg

standard RB26 exhaust manifolds, dump pipes & heat shields

$25 ono

post-86035-0-78986500-1354156242_thumb.jpg

RB26 standard flywheel, not needed as i but a npc billet flywheel on when i did clutch change

$50 ono

post-86035-0-43577000-1354155889_thumb.jpg

245/40/18 BF GOODRICH tyres good tread. came off my 260RS stagea as the rears were worn & the rolling diameter difference between front n rear was interfering with atessa.

$50 ono

post-86035-0-29168500-1354156048_thumb.jpg

Items are located in Ipswich qld & tyres sold pending payment

Edited by GTR260

Manifolds ,dumps & heat shields sold pending payment.

Still for sale,

Rb30 block

Rb26 flywheel

Rb26 standard injectors

Manifolds, dumps & heat shields sold.

Someone make offers on the rest! Would like this stuff gone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...