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Power FC D-Jetro suit R33 GTR includes commander pressure switches and pressure harness $1100 $1000

Bonnet White 2 very small dents 450 ono

Guards LHF mint 250RHF 3 very small dents 225 ono

Front bar and lower lip S1? Will post pics later if there is interest 750 ono

Doors White 250 each less glass motors and trims

Boot and spoiler white good condition 325

Rear bar 150

Glass rear screen 150. 1/4 95each. door 175each .windscreen 100 2 minor chips

GTR side skirts. Stock white 150 ono

tail lights white 50 each

rear garnish 35

abs modual S1 150

brake master and booster 150 SOLD

pwr win switch RH 75

Center console 50

Triple cluster set 125

ABS ecu 75

eng ECU 85

hicas ecu85

Keyset (all locks with genuine GTR key) 150

side mirrors. R is non retractable type L is but its grey

all body braces available POA

AWD pump 175

subframes. Available poa

grille white 150

Suspension parts front and rear POA

RAYS Volk Racing GRC 17x9.0JJ +18. Sticker says 114.3 pcd but has spacers to go from 100 to 114 Hand painted gold, wheels could do with some love, no rubber. Offers?

Grille SOLD

Brake Master and booster sold

Steering colom SOLD

Power steer pump SOLD

PLEASE NOTE THERE IS NO, NONE Nadda MOTOR BOX OR RUNNING GEAR!!!!!

Will trade for GENUINE R33/R34 wheels and rubber or sexy equivilant.

Thanks

Rob

S3 GTR lower lip (Front) Reco genuine, needs minor repair and a coat of paint - $650

dca1s8.jpg

RAYS Volk Racing GRC 17x9.0JJ +18. Sticker says 114.3 pcd but has spacers to go from 100 to 114 Hand painted gold, wheels could do with some love, no rubber. Offers?

28sn81k.jpg

Sparco steering wheel offers.

2u9ljt1.jpg

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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