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RB30 Engineers help PLZ!!

ABuSD

By ABuSD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Its like saying your putting a 202 out of a HQ holden into a HZ that had a 173, or whatever smaller engine....Nissan used the RB motor on HEAPS of models for a number of years..

On a side note mine uses 2 "Holden" RB30 tensioner bearings ($80 each) instead of $292 for a Nissan idler and $170?? for a Nissan tensioner....

And as mentioned Dayco timing belt is a catalogue item cost $30 instead of $90 for Nissan genuine item :)

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
see the RB30 option seems ok now! But just getting it engineered is my problem :)

It doesn't need engineering :headspin: , the "new" block will have the same engine number as the "old" block. Because it gets stamped on there by the machine shop when they rebuild the "new" bottom end. If you want to sell the "old" block, you have to have the numbers machine off, because there can't be 2 engines around with the same numbers.

I wonder if he will get it this time? :bonk:

browny Proficient

browny

Posted
Posted
Its like saying your putting a 202 out of a HQ holden into a HZ that had a 173, or whatever smaller engine....Nissan used the RB motor on HEAPS of models for a number of years..

No its not that simple. Its all about ADR's. The car will generally need to conform to the newest ADR's that apply to either of the engine or car.

It is easy to put a newer engine into an old car because as long as you include all emmissions gear (eg pollution control devices, std ECU, cat etc) then can argue that the emmisions will be the same as the ADR that the engine complies with.

If you put an old engine in a new car you need to be able to prove the emissions meet the (most probably) newer ADR's that the car was designed to meet. I have heard various things about how easy/expensive this can be but i've never needed to explore it any further.

You can't just swap any red motor around, even though they were from the same series. This is because they bought in an emissions ADR in 73 (I think). The same rules apply as above for these swaps.

eg

*pre-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars

*pre-ADR engines can be used in any post-ADR car if fitted with all the ADR complient emmissions gear from the later series motor

*Post-ADR engines can be used in post-ADR cars

*Post-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars if fitted if the ADR emissions gear is retained

This system works off engine numbers and is why you will find people with the older Holdens looking for "pre emmissions" blocks so they can legally run aftermarket carbs etc.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
If you put an old engine in a new car you need to be able to prove the emissions meet the (most probably) newer ADR's that the car was designed to meet. I have heard various things about how easy/expensive this can be but i've never needed to explore it any further.

This is the main reason why you stamp your old engine number onto the RB30 block if possible. As far as the RTA (or equivalent in each state) is concerned, it's the same engine and they will be none the wiser. No one doing a pink slip is going to pop your bonnet and say "Hmm, this engine looks 50mm higher than normal, I think it might not be the original!" The RB30 will probably fail emissions testing, but then again, I'm sure mine will fail as-is anyway with the mods on it and it's still the original RB25.

If you buy a second hand block and have to change engine numbers you may strike a problem (although I haven't read of anyone in these forums getting any), but doing it the way SK suggested with the same engine number should get you no problems at all.

The head has a much larger effect on emissions than the block anyway. Pistons and blocks are fundamentally the same as they were 50 years ago. Most of the technology advancements go into the head.

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
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Posted

no i get it, i understand all of yas! And am VERY apreciative of the input and info. I just dont want headaches when i sell it, what is more of a catching trading post ad: an R33 wif an RB30DET or an RB25DET? if all legit i kno id pick the RB30 ANYday!

Cheers once again!:)

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