Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMG_6376_zps3992a7f9.jpg

IMG_6377_zps1a9bf77f.jpg

IMG_6378_zps861aa30c.jpg

IMG_6379_zpse48c8d07.jpg

IMG_6380_zpsbe12e0bf.jpg

IMG_6381_zpsa33bafd0.jpg

IMG_6382_zps29094911.jpg

IMG_6383_zpsbddffd8a.jpg

IMG_6385_zpse44f9ac9.jpg

IMG_6386_zpsb4817c1b.jpg

IMG_6387_zpsf6895108.jpg

KGrHqZHJE0FF11PzSwvBRkvN7ML9Q60_57_zps4f

KGrHqUOKooFF0rH237BRkvNwROU60_57_zps52c3

Alright, got a new car and I'm not too keen on the wheels it came with.

Brand: Speedline
Model: 5 spokers (can't find model name)
Tyres: Federal 595 RSR 215/40R17 NEAR NEW Bridgestone Turanza ER3000 225/55R17 legal tread
Set
PCD: 5x114.3
Diameter / Width / Offset:17x9 +25
Location: Liverpool
Willing to Ship: At buyers expense
Price: $1200 ono

They are in good condition, one looks like it's had a fight with a gutter so the lip is slightly buckled. Previous owner said it's been like that for a few months now and car drives fine.

Change the rear tyres, get that lip fixed ($100-150) and you'll have a boss set of wheels.

Only has 2 centre caps, personally I think they look better without them but meh.

PM if interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...