Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Garrett dash 5 core very good condition $400

Rb26dett block no cracks etc $250

Rb26 complete head with adjustable cam gears ready to bolt onto block complete with covers timing belt coilpacks exhaust manis dumps $1000

Rb26 intake plenum $120

Rb26 brand new water pump new in the box $60

N1 water pump only done around 1000kms $70

Rb26 r33 crank long snout came from running car $350

Rb26 r33 crank came from running motor as it had low compression$170

R33 Gtr rb26 standard ecu $80

Twin turbo pipe $50

Rb26 diff modified to suit rwd $150

R32 Gtr turbo x1 complete $40

Rb26 balancer small chip but is still fine $30

Rb26 turbo oil and water lines $40

Rb26 engine brackets $20

Rb26 idle reg $50

Rb26 rods $40

Rb26 pistons $50

R33 Gtr Coilpack harness great condition $50

Rb26 Coilpack valley cover painted wrinkle red with near new ornament plate from 34 Gtr $100

R32 Gtr air con condenser $50

Many more engine parts available turbo lines etc

Gold Coast

0487924497

Please text or call

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...