Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I am trying to clean my 34 GTT engine by up some while installing a plazmaman,

There is a vacuum line going from intake manifold into steel tube across front of engine to the powersteering valve?/Sensor?

Would it be ok to move this from manifold to charge pipe and T off the power steering hose to the Apex Boost controller?

Or would this somehow have an ill effect on boost control?

Also is it normal for the second hose on the powersteering to be plugged?

Cheers

post-90047-0-38406000-1375719227_thumb.jpg

oops picture added,

Also thought of another Question,

Why do i Have a MAP sensor, Boost sensor and AFM?

Also how hard is it for a tuner to tune around IAC? so i could remove the iac from the new manifold and blank it off

... I don't often say this, but please consult with a professional before you do to much more to your car.

1. No... don't T off those lines, make sure they are connected as standard.

2. Looks like the sensor for a factory boost gauge

3. You don't have a MAP sensor that is reffrenced by the ecu. The MAP sensor is the boost sensor. AFM is reffrenced by the ecu.

4. Don't even think about it. You won't be able to correctly tune around idle controll. FFS there is a provision on the manifold to bolt it straight on???

J.

Thankyou for the reply

1) Could you tell me why running a line from intake pipe to boost controller that also T's onto power steering would affect boost control?

3) Ok, i still dont really understand that, while setting up for the plazmaman i realized i have Map sensor and Boost sensor running to the manifold. As well as the 3rd that you say is likely for boost gauge

4) True there is a provision for it, but i will be getting a tune after the install anyway so if i could remove it and tidy the engine bay with no ill effects why wouldnt i?

1) Never, ever, take a signal for boost control from anything other than a dedicated tapping port with nothing else connected to it. This ensures that should you have a failure of any of the other hoses and equipment that you (shouldn't) have connected to the same tapping point, that you don't lose boost control.

3) The R34 has a MAP sensor for the guage, same as all preceding (turbo) Skylines. The R34 also has a MAP sensor that is connected to the ECU. But it is not used to control the fuelling. It is effectively just a boost sensor, and effectively just used for overboost protection. The load signal for the engine is still taken from the AFM.

4) Ill effects include losing control of idle speed. Not having it is daft. "Tidyness" at the expense of utility is daft.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...