Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Warning Light

webng

By webng,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well the parking foot brake has been faulty for years (foot pedal will depress but won't release when i pull the lever) now so I don't use it at all. But this is the first time the light has come on. If that's just it I shouldn't worry?

Spong Collaborator

Spong

Posted
Posted

Sounds like the cables have seized up, which I think happens sometimes back when I owned a C34. Could be a problem if the brake pads are pressing on the discs. It's certainly worth jacking it up to see if that's the case. If you were here in NZ, a 6 monthly warrant of fitness check would keep your car off the road if the parking brake failed.

webng Experienced

webng

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, will check when i get home. Top up and service in a couple of weeks so all good.

Definitely low brake fluid Nick, had the same issue with mine, topped up and it went off. Just check the level, I can almost guarantee you that it'll be on low. You might be due for some new pads as well.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424151-sticky-parking-brake/#entry6948181

Well after having the pedal seize right up on me, I thought it was definitely going to be a removal job.

To avoid that, I gave the WD40 treatment another go. This time I had to lay down mats, newspaper and towels to stop the WD from getting onto the carpets. Using a bit of PVC tubing attached the can I was able to soak the pedal mechanism from every angle, completely soaking the area until the WD was running off onto the towels. Repeated a few times.

Well f**k me, it worked a treat. It freed the mechanism right up, the pedal now releases fully when you pull the brake release. My only concern is that I did wash off some grease on the pedal, so hopefully I haven't affected any lubrication points, but if I have to add some oil or grease in future its not too much a big deal.

Will report back if I actually ended up ruining the pedal, but so far so good. Beats having a stationary vehicle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...