Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am after $19,999 and price is negotiable, no low ballers/time wasters/scammers who work on oil rigs.


I've had this car just less than 2 years and it's been a pleasure to own and drive.


purchased at 97,000km and currently has under 122,000km. I am the second Owner in Australia.


I have done the 100,000km timing belt maintenance consisting of OEM and aftermarket parts that include Timing belt, all Auxillery drive belts, tensioner & idler bearings, water pump, rocker cover seals, spark plug seals, oil cap seals, new spark plugs, replaced all fluids including radiator, front+rear diffs, Transfer case, gearbox oil, AYC fluid and power steering fluid with fully synthetic oils from Penrite, AYC flushed with Mitsubishi OEM fluid.

Always serviced with Penrite racing Tenth 10w-40 Engine oil with Geniune mitsubishi oil filter every 5000KM & driveline fluids replaced every 20,000KM.


The car is engineered for the exhaust and intake and I have paperwork and majority of receipts for purchases and work done to the car. I still have japanese log book, and user manual.

It has been tuned to 209awkw on 98RON, has a secondary map for E85 but would recommend a tuner to fully tune it if you want to run E85, also recommend to change to 1000cc + injectors.


Current mods on the car include:



- EVO 8 MR 10.5T turbo

- ported stock manifold

- 3" stainless steel turbo back exhaust (o2 and down pipe unknown brand from Japan when imported), catback is HKS silent power with hot dog resonator fitted

- straight through race cat (will include spare 3" cat)

- HKS 264/272 step 1 cams

- 3 port Grimspeed boost controller

- HKS air filter

- Walbro 255 in-tank fuel pump

- AGP LICP

- Meek turbo Outlet


- Slotted front & rear brake rotors with high performance street pads from X3E - <700km old brakes bled and filled with high performance Motul RBF600 Brake fluid

- Competition Clutch Stage 2 + ACT Monoloc to help prevent thrust bearing from popping out

- Energy Suspension shifter base bushings


- Koni 2 way adjustible (damper & rebound) shocks + custom 10kg king springs (shocks rebuilt just over 12 months ago), sits 25mm lower

- whiteline 24mm adjustible rear sway bar


- Varis carbon exhaust shroud

- carbon eye lids

- 20% tinted windows

- tinted rear window visor

- vortex generator

- shorty antenna

- 4300K HID's + white LED parkers

- 17x8 +35 ROH Envy wheels, painted satin black with Nitto NT555 235/45/17 tyres, (less than 10,000km old) + sexy red lug nuts that give extra 20kw. running 15mm bolt on hub centric ichiba spacers on the front.

- brake calipers have been refreshed with red caliper paint and stickers


- Clarion DVD entertainment system

- custom moulded sub and amp enclosure in boot

- upgraded front + rear speakers

- amp powering speakers under driver seat

> unsure of amp/speaker specs but will get them soon.

- White LED interior lights

- greddy shift knob


- Tephra V7 mod - dual map tune (98 & e85 - e85 is base map only on standard injectors and current mods), has features setup such as launch control, NLTS, valet mode + more can be setup.

- Innovate motorsports LC-1 wideband gauge

- autometer colbalt boost gauge

- autometer dual gauge holder mounted on steering column

- HKS turbo timer


the bad:

- got reversed into in a parking lot and dented the front bar along with some paint damage - quoted $250 to fix at Intense Paint & Panel, Warwick Farm

- scrapes on underside of front bar

- small rock chip on front lip/ front bar.


Apart from the above, the car is still in good condition, i detail it every few months, and will be detailed before sold. Headlights have been polished and sealed with meguiars UV protectant.

Interior has been steam cleaned and seats are in good condition, no rips or tears.


Car is located in Gladesville NSW - Monday to Friday before 6pm

and Liverpool, NSW - after 7pm


Please email me if you have further questions. Sorry but i am unable to upload new pics this stage, pic below is prior to brakes repaint & rear window visor being fitted.


Will consider swaps for 2008+ V36 Sedan Type SP, and may consider swaps + cash my way for an 05-06 Ninja ZX6-R.


$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG


contact me for more infromation.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...