Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest two.06l
Ummm, i accidently snapped one of the wheel studs after changing my brake pads, is it safe to drive around in temporarily (with the remaining 4 studs), untill i get it fixed???

think about it this way 1/5 of the studs is 2/5 more dangerous, drive it with a 3/5 less throttle in 4/5 of a week to get it fixed before your car becomes 5/5 of the scenery.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44081-idiot/#findComment-900767
Share on other sites

well, i guess it could depend on the condition of the other 4. I did the same thing once and i actually got pulled over and got a defect for it (amongst others) albeit it was a canary yellow V8 commodore which stood out like dogs balls haha Safety-wise, its probably not the best idea as the wheel could potentially fall off (worse case scenario) but if you are desperate like i was, you can as long as you dont do anything stupid. Best advice is to get it fixed asap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44081-idiot/#findComment-900773
Share on other sites

yeah i got mine welded on....but it snapped off again later. I must be too strong haha make sure if you get new ones they are the right length....cos my one ended up being longer than the others and the nut didnt fit. Luckily i had 50million of the buggers lying around. Its no big drama and it shouldnt cost you much. If you just twisted it off the hub thingy, you can reuse your original bolt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44081-idiot/#findComment-900801
Share on other sites

one less won't kill you..

my other car i found out only had 3 studs on each wheel (and it only had 4 to start with).. and i've been driving like that since i got it for around 15,000km with no probs. If the others are done tightly i don't think the wheel is going to fall off.

But yeah, get it fixed if possible :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44081-idiot/#findComment-901429
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...