Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

S15frontshot_zpsd2530c76.jpg[/url]


watermarkbottomleftNEW_zpsdc34faae.jpg[/url]


Rearend_zpsd7d47ff2.jpg[/url]


S15initsnewhome_zps00f0ba01.jpg[/url]


S15enginebay_zpsb15e4b40.jpg[/url]


S15interior_zps12ff3d9c.jpg[/url]


Defisinstalled_zps80207e03.jpg[/url]


The time has come to part ways with my S15, it has been a great car and never let me down. But I'd like to get on top of my debts.


It is a 2001 model JDM import. It has 140000kms on the clock and roughly 3 months rego.


The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner, and has had a lot of other mods done. The list is below:


Engine:

Rebuilt engine at 110k (2012)

Metal head gasket

ARP head studs

ACL race bearings

Apexi air filter

GKtech rocker arm stoppers

Apexi Power FC + hand controller

ASI 42mm radiator

Greddy type R intercooler

3 inch exhaust

Futisubo muffler


Transmission/Drivetrain:

S14 5 speed conversion

Extreme 6 puk clutch (done at 135k)

C's short shifter

R34 LSD 4.08 final gear


Suspension/Chassis:

BC type V1 coilovers (8/6 spring rates)

Hardrace camber and toe arms

GKtech subframe slip in collars

Nismo front strut brace

GKtech 40mm roll centre correction kit 25mm track increase

Tie rod end lock spacers



Braking:

Dixel Slotted and drilled rotors (f)

Custom Braided lines

QFM AR1 front brake pads


Exterior:

JDM spec R side skirts

JDM spec R rear pods

JDM rear bumper

AUDM rear windscreen

rolled guards



interior:

Pioneer AVH-P5950DVD TV unit

Clarion speakers

Defi style gauges (wired up, sensors not connected)


Very fun car to drive with nothing more to spend. It makes 200kw at 18PSI with the stock T28 ball bearing turbo. It also runs a 5 speed gearbox from it's sibling the S14.


There are a few blemishes on the body, the front bumper in particular is beaten up, along with the passenger side front guard. Interior is in great condidtion, no rips or tears, or missing pieces. Factory leather seats are also in great condition.


the front tyres are currently worn, and I have temporary wheels on until I get new ones fitted.


Recently had a major service, consisting of Spark plugs, engine and gearbox oil, fuel filter and brake fluid.


Price: $16,500 ono


Not interested in swaps, or parting out.


You can contact me on 0490169671 if you are interested in having a look.


Thanks,


Adam.

Edited by Run-It-Hard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...