Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Sadly sold the old girl earlier this week and have a number of parts left over which weren't included...

My prized possession are the TE37's, so I'll start off with this. The rest will follow soon (watch this space).

These are mint, basically brand new (as new). Not a flaw in them. Will let the pictures do the talking but will post more of them up this weekend. Current pictures are on the car, which obviously is no longer the case as the car is gone.

post-25413-0-63663500-1423743260_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-50661000-1423743264_thumb.jpg

post-25413-0-85615200-1423743267_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-40323500-1423743271_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-99283600-1423743274_thumb.jpgpost-25413-0-10010200-1423743278_thumb.jpg

Specs are as follows...

2x 17x9JJ+15 (Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001 215/45R17 at 80%)
2x 18x10.5J+22 (Bridgestone Adrenalin RE002 235/40R18 at 95%)
4x Rays Eng center caps
4x Rays Eng hub rings (73.1Øx66.1Ø - Suits Nissan hubs)

Colour of the rims are genuine Rays Eng Matte Black. These were custom done by Rays Eng which incurred a hefty wait time, plus additional costs for the colour. Furthermore, I got these when Rays Eng updated the TE37's to show their branded (e.g. Rays Eng, Made in Japan, Forged Monoblock) on the rims to counter the wannabe/fake/inferior/copied rims mass produced.

I have noticed that the finish on these are so much more durable than getting them resprayed in retrospect. I've experienced this first hand when I previously had an older discontinued pair of TE37's which were originally bronze, sprayed by a professional shop to matte black. The colour on the lips chipped very easily and looked ghetto as. The finish of the paint around the wheel nuts also came off even though it was professionally done. Whereas,
the original Matte Black done by Rays Eng haven't got any chips or defects in the finish whatsoever!

Anyhoo... Looking for $3k ono for the lot including the rubber. Not keen to separate the rims and the rubber as I'll have no use for the rubber.

Pick up in Burwood East, VIC. Happy to courier but you need to organise it!

Contact via sms preferred on zero four two one 1 2 1 eight 1 eight.

Cheers,

Andy

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump!

Had a few people keen but no one's come up with the goods yet...

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Oh and an update on the rubber on the 17's... There is actually a bit of inner camber wear on the pair. Price still stands as I am basically giving the rubber away free with the wheels. Rubber on the 18's are basically brand new. Price is nego within reason. Low ballers will be ignored.

Edited by AnDyStYLe
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Bump!

Willing to post to anywhere in Australia via courier... If I remember correctly, last time I sent a set of wheels to Sydney it was about $100 although that didn't include rubber.

Give us your postcode and I'll get a quote!

Cheers,

Andy

  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Bump and price drop... $2.4k

For a full set of immaculate and original TE37's (NOT resprayed), this is a steal. Just needing to make space in the spare room, so these need to go.

Cheers,

Andy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • This. The R34 handbrake icon DOES come up when the brake fluid level is low. You might be sitting right on that threshhold. I have been down this diagnosis path and this was the solution (and it was pretty much as full as your picture is to begin with).
    • Unfortunately the cavaet to that is that while any scan tool should be able to read the code, the workshop will need a consult plug to OBD socket adapter. You don't have a location on your profile, where are you based?
    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
×
×
  • Create New...