Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If anybody has a set they want to get rid of, I am chasing a set of R33 GTSt uprated springs - around 8kg rear and 10 kg front, or 10kg rear and 12kg front.

I need stock size to fit on the ohlins sus I have in place now.

Either that or if anyone has some hard sus for an R33 that they want to swap for some ohlins with a comfy ride, firm, but not hard, let me know:)

Cheers guys

Steve

No probs Dean, can you pm me your address? I will be finished with the navy on friday - discharging, so will be able to pop around any time you like. They are good for twisties, but depends on how hard you push them. I have a borrowed set of springs in there at the moment, 8kg front and I think 6 or 8kg rear - they are sort of intermediate. The original springs that were in are a bit softer - ask Hippy what they were like:). But, I want to go harder still, cos I like the go-kart feel.

N/A, they are gold, adjustable height via circlip similar to bilstein, and 30 posn adjustable damper but they dont use standard coilover springs, they need stock size springs.

Edit, the springs that I have with them currently (not the loaners fitted) are Bestex.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...