Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Heavy Power Steering - How To Disable Speed Variable Assist Steering And Control Power Assistance Level.


Recommended Posts

I've been asked to do a DIY on this simple fix to problems with the R32 Power Steering Assistance.

Issue: After removing HICAS and installing a RB25DET engine in my R32 Skyline, the power steering computer no longer receives a speed input and puts the power steering into fail mode, which causes heavy steering approximately 30 seconds after you start driving.

Tools Needed: Multimeter, Soldering iron and solder, Approximately 2m of wire, heat shrink, DC/DC Converter. Some basic electrical knowledge.

Time to complete job: 1-2 hours.

How the R32 Power Steering System Operates: The HICAS computer in the car alters the input voltage (depending on the vehicle speed) to the solenoid on the power steering rack. The solenoid has two wires going in, a voltage feed and an earth. The solenoid gives max assistance at 12 volts and the assistance reduces as you reduce the voltage. If you have a way to manually control this voltage level, you can adjust the voltage as required to give you the desired steering assistance. You don’t want to just wire in a 12 volt ignition feed direct to the solenoid as this would make the steering dangerously light at higher speeds and probably burn out the power steering solenoid over time.
See picture below to identify the power steering solenoid.

IMG_2464_zpsc572acd7.jpg

You will need to purchase a DC/DC Converter to allow you to manually reduce the voltage from a 12 volt (ignition feed). I purchased the below unit from Jay Car for around $20.

IMG_2482_zps433531ac.jpg

The plug near the fuse box in this picture has the two wires coming from the power steering solenoid.

IMG_2582_zps02ff2915.jpg

Use a multimeter to identify which wire is the earth and which is the feed. Because I'm fussy and don't like seeing dodgy wiring, I lifted the fuse box and traced back the wiring 10 cm, so that my modification to the loom would be hidden under the fuse box. Leave the earth wire intact and cut the feed wire, then solder your length of wire to this and run it back inside the car through the port on the drivers side.

This wire gets soldered to the output voltage of the DC/DC converter. You will just need to locate an earth and an ignition feed under the steering column for the two inputs. Here is me testing the output voltage of the DC/DC converter:

IMG_2483_zpsb87539a7.jpg

The metal plate on the top of the DC/DC converter acts as a heat sink. The more effectively the heat sink works, the higher the current (at the set voltage) it can output. With that in mind I riveted the heat sink to a piece of aluminium and then used this as the bracket to bolt it in place. The idea being, that some of the heat will conduct to the chassis of the car and provide a higher and more stable current output.

IMG_2484_zpsd066444c.jpg

This should fix your power steering problems! I have found I like the setting at around 8 volts - it seems to give a nice level of assistance at low speeds, without being too light at high speeds.

Of note: Make sure you connect the voltage input to the DC/DC converter from an ignition feed, if you use a live battery feed, it will drain your battery and probably burn out the solenoid as it will be operating all the time (even when the car is off).

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Need to see other side of PCB in that area...ie; I don't see any thru-hole mounting, just soldered vias (smd zeners in SOT23 have 3 legs but only 2 are used, as reflected by PCB tracks)
    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
×
×
  • Create New...