Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do people feel about this list? I've edited up an old SAU list for an event that's coming up soon that I'll be assisting with scrutineering.

I've got a bit of track day experience and know my way around a car well enough.

This is not a door to door racing event and will be a small sprint day run under AASA regs.

Exterior
- Brake lights working.
- Windscreen - clear visibility and no cracks.
- Battery - secured firmly.
- Battery Triangle Affixed.
- Tyres - check tread, valve caps fitted.
- Wheels secured firmly.
- No fluid leaks, oil, brakes, gearbox, etc.
- Covers on fluid reservoirs, clutch, brakes, power steering.
- Worn or cracked belts and hoses, cracked or worn fuel lines.
- Accelerator - Must be free of binding, throttle return springs safely attached.
Interior
- Brake pedal - Not low or spongy
- Steering wheel - boss kit secure, grip not loose etc
- Seat belts/harness - secured, sound operation and condition, within date range.
- Front seats - secured firmly, within date range.
- Fire extinguisher – 1kg min securely fixed, metal bracket, firm clamp, in reach of driver, gauge in green - AS1841
- Doors handles function internally/externally both sides.
- Helmet - No physical damage visible AS1698 sticker.
- Cage check, secure, padded where appropriate.
- Engine kill switch operates if available.
- No loose objects, spare wheel, jack, tools etc. removed.
Extra things to check at home before you arrive:
Suspension check - Seals/bushes, etc.
Exhaust - check for secure mounting/leaks.
Bolt check - Cage, seat, suspension, wheels.
Brake pads.
Steering connections/couplings.
Worn/cracked hoses/fittings/couplings/etc.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454568-scrutineering-checklist/
Share on other sites

Looks pretty good. Other things that scrutes have looked at (in rallying anyway) are battery terminals correctly insulated (in case of accident / rollover)

- Do the valve caps matter? I was once told I had to have metal caps - WTF? Must have been in the sup regs for the event, because it wasn't a CAMS requirement

- Do you need to test the kill switch? I haven't got one so don't know whether it gets tested

- Why do the harnesses need to be in date? Is it a requirement for the type of event? I know that for higher events it is a requirement, but didn't think that track days came under those reg

- Fire ext - stamped and in date? (this one always opens up a can of worms)

- Do they need to run catch cans?

- Bonnet fixings - ie secondary catch if running modified latching mechanism

- Cage is a bit of a funny one - if one is fitted, how will you know whether it's appropriate?

- If any QLD registered cars enter, they must carry a CTP extension for the event. Taking the plates off does not count!!

Cant think of too much else. Main thing is if the car looks fairly well presented, generally these things will be well looked after.

Cool list Dan,,,

- Brake lights working. I'm a firm beleiving in all lights should work,,,foggy days at Wakie need headlights and tail lights. It also helps if you can flash your headlamps at slower drivers that are not looking in their mirrors.

- Windscreen - clear visibility and no cracks. Wipers and washers again are great in foggy and/or wet conditions.

- Covers on fluid reservoirs, clutch, brakes, power steering. If you mean those wrist band type covers,,,then no to that,,, thats was started by the drift guys and is not necesary.

I have been harrassed for non metal valve caps,,,somewhere on one of the leading tyre manufacturers websites they claim older valves will leak air at speed.

I have also coped it about no insulation on battery terminals,,,still not understanding why.

Cheers

Neil.

The insulated battery terminals thing is when the battery is close to sheet metal (usually bonnet), and slight deformation of a panel can short out on a terminal. If the battery is tucked away in a box, then this isn't as critical.

Yeh it's probably a mindset - as soon as they see naked terminals they get nervous. My first impression of your photo was the same, despite there being nothing nearby that can short the terminals. I guess it's very low risk, but I have always strapped some poly or insertion rubber around the clamps out of habit. Takes fk all time and is one less thing that a scrute can pick on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so will run the piping over that radiator and no plenum it is. Put that money towards a Haltech and see what suits. Any ideas something like an elite 2000 or 2500 right? My long term goal is 300kw e85 and manual swap and that’s a dream come true. For now will be 200kw and auto the stock rb25det neo intake isn’t too expensive with throttle body. If I was to have the port matching done, Would that be better than the stock de intake as the det has bigger holes plus has the spots for sensors etc? And suit more long term?  appreciate the advice?   
    • You understand AFR is not the only thing that contributes to it pinging yeah? Funnily, what the AFR gauge will tell you when it likely is pinging, is going to make you think things are really safe and good.
    • Run the piping how we all have for decades. Also the duel runners with the +T setup dramatically helps it gets on boost quicker. Yes, chase huge power it'll become a problem, but you're a long way off when you're already saying an aftermarket ECU is out of the budget. You also say NisTune as it's simple, and then immediately say it'll be painful, meaning... It won't be simple. It will likely cost you a lot more stuffing around with a Nistune, than just putting a Haltech or similar in.
    • I’ll order an afr gauge to keep an eye on it.  Then will get a haltech soon 
    • TD05 or maybe pulsar PSR2867r Gen 2?  id love a garret but it’s quite out the budget for now and I’m not chasing crazy power.    yeh fuel pump haven’t looked into but whatever works, kind of last on my list.    Nistune because it’s simple but Ik it’s a lot of pain especially as I’m auto +t with the whole seperate TCM etc still investigating that. Haltech id love but once budget tight for now atleast.    finally the reason I’m trying for a plenum instead of the stock intake is I already have a standard Intercooler mounted etc. so the ports are on both sides so trying to not have to go over the clutch fan radiator etc. trying to find a good deal return flow if I don’t than this will do for now I guess. btw any ideas with that, apparently some people have to cut blades to reduce it from hitting the Intercooler piping over the radiator ? Thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...